These rechargeable commuter lights are a great way to be seen while you are out on the roads at night. They come in two colours: White, for the front, and Red, for the rear. They have 5 settings: High, Medium, Low, Flashing 1 and Flashing 2.  Each light comes with it's own micro usb charging cable. A stretchy (yet thick) rubber strap on the back allows you to mount them to your handlebars or seat-post. These lights have an IP65 rating, which means they are good for use in the rain but they likely won't survive being dropped in puddles. We haven't verified the manufacturers claims of brightness so we have not listed it. Our long term testing suggests that they are plenty bright to be seen well out on the road. In fact, we think they are a bit brighter than most commuter lights. Battery life from our tests :The red lights have an average battery life of 12.5 hours when used on the Flashing 1 setting (the most sensible for using in traffic). For their entire operation, the red lights have the same brightness - i.e. they just stop working at about 12.5 hours.The white lights also have an average battery life of 12.5 hours when used on the Flashing 1 setting. This is when the light starts dimming and it continues dimming until it stops working entirely at about 14-15 hours.Note: The safest setting for riding in traffic is the first flashing setting. Lights which are flashing are much more easily noticed by traffic.

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You're looking at a mighty tubeless valve. It seals well to the rim and, since it's a presta valve, it has a removable core so that you can clean it when its inevitably become blocked by overambitious tyre sealant. At 46mm long it fits even reasonably deep carbon mtb rims. Not only a decent valve, it can be used with tyre inserts because of it's t-shaped air passages. It also has a hex slot at the base also allows you to hold the valve still, just in case you ever need to (valves can get rather slippery). We're not quite sure why other valves, like Cushcore ones, retail for $50 plus per pair - it seems a bit steep.  Note: This is one valve, if you want to purchase a pair you will need to purchase two... Math 🤓

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Here's a bleed kit for bleeding Magura brakes. It contains a syringe, tubing with a caliper adapter and a bleed funnel with an adapter for the lever. Conveniently Magura has used this connection system in their brakes for over ten years!  We used to sell kits with two syringes but we've found that bleeding brakes with a funnel is much better than two syringes. The biggest perk though, is you can now do a lever bleed (like on shimano brakes). You'll still need to get some mineral oil and we recommend making a bleed block of some sort for your brakes. 

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Brake pads are the most regularly replaced part of a mountain bike. Sadly, pads tend to be expensive and perform well OR cheap and perform poorly. These pads are different: they perform well at a reasonable price. These brake pads are for brakes which fit Shimano Road and Gravel brake pads. The equivalent Shimano pad models are K03S, K05S, K03Ti,  K05Ti, K04S, K04Ti, L03A, L05A, L04C. A list of brake models these pads are compatible with can be found in the compatibility tab above.  We spent months testing a bunch of different brake pads under fifteen accomplished riders to find brake pads which perform well at a great price. Our favourite pads were Frictive pads, a new local brand. Our test riders found the performance of these pads comparable to the big name brands you know and love. We are stoked to finally see a NZ brand offering good pads and trying to address the generally overpriced market for braking products, it’s something we can fully get on-board with. Performance Guarantee: Put simply, these pads perform well. We will refund you if you disagree. Easy as. Just let us know if you’re unsatisfied and we’ll sort the rest. Further details about the Performance Guarantee can be found here.Notes: Descriptions of the performance differences between pad compound, brake model comparability and answers to some frequently asked questions can be found on the tabs above We recommend that you try both pad compounds to get a feel for the differences so you can make an informed choice about your preferred compound. Even at downhill World Cups, different riders use different compounds as it's a personal preference. We’re excited to be able to offer these pads at prices that make personal pad testing possible for more riders! FAQ Do I need Fins?Probably not. Finned pads decrease the chance of fade in really heavy braking situations. Brake fade is the reduction in stopping power that occurs when brakes are very hot. Finned pads increase the convective surface area (the area exposed to air flow) of your braking system. An increased convective surface area increases the rate of heat dissipation, which in turn decreases the temperature that your brakes run at for a given amount of braking. A lower temperature for a given amount of braking means that fins decrease brake fade. Additionally, lower operating temperatures reduce the wear rate of the pads. That is to say that fins can improve hot braking performance and decrease pad wear. But unless you experience brake fade, fins will not improve your braking performance noticeably. Most riders will never experience brake fade and thus will not benefit from finned pads. The slightly decreased wear rate of finned pads does not justify the large cost difference. Even the most experienced riders in our test group felt no need to “upgrade” to finned pads. What compound should I run on an e-bike?E-bikes are like normal bikes except they are roughly 10kg heavier. In terms of braking requirements, there is no difference between riding an e-bike and riding a normal bike after eating 10kg of pies. Contrary to what marketing may tell you, e-bikes don't require any special brake pad materials or rotor type. We suggest you try Resin pads and Metallic pads to get a feel for the differences and then make a decision based on your own experiences. Refer to the “Compound Differences” tab for more information. Compatibility Shimano: - Dura Ace BR-R9170, BR-R9270- Ultegra BR-R8070, BR-R8170, BR-R9170- 105 BR-R7070- Tiagra BR-4770- GRX BR-RX810 / RX400- Metrea BR-U5000, BR-RS805, BR-RS505, BR- RS405, BR-RS305- XTR M9100, M9110Tektro / TRP: HD-R310 Compound Differences PowerResin tend to have slightly more bite when cold than Metallic. Metallic perform better at higher temperatures, i.e. very long descentsModulationResin have a progressive feel whereas Metallic are more on/off. It is easier to crawl down steep things without skidding with ResinDurabilityFor a given amount of riding you would use roughly 3 pairs of Resin pads to each pair of MetallicNoiseResin are very quiet, Metallic are always a bit noisier. At high temperatures, or in the wet, Metallic sometimes screech (you know the sound)Wet ridingMetallic tend to outperform Resin in the wetFadeBrake fade is the reduction in stopping power that occurs when brakes are very hot. Resin tend to fade at lower temperature than Metallic. That said, with these Resin pads we haven't been able to get fade in any situation - including the infamous Mt Oxford descent! Rotor Wear RateResin pads cause lower wear to your rotor than Metallic padsTotal Ongoing CostsEven after accounting for the lower rotor wear rate from Resin pads, Metallic pads will cost you about half as much as Resin pads in the long term for total brake maintenance costs Maximizing Performance To maximize the braking force from new pads it is important to bed them in systematically. It is tempting to forgo this step, but this will leave performance on the table. 'Just riding' a new pair of pads results in inferior braking compared to intentionally bedding in those same pads. A good bedding in process transfers an even layer of brake pad material to the rotor. Pad material transferred to the rotor generates more friction with the pad than the rotor material does. Think about the difference between two grippy surfaces touching versus two slick surfaces. Bedding in your pads creates the best possible match between your pad and rotor surfaces. Which in turn maximizes braking force. PROCEDURE1) Clean your rotor with a non-residual cleaner like isopropyl alchohol (you can forgo this step if you don’t have any around)2) Install pads3) Install wheel4) Pedal bike up to speed and apply your brakes with a consistent pressure (gently at first is best).5) Take off brakes before you stop. Stopping fully ends up causing an uneven transfer of pad material6) Repeat steps 4-5 ten to twenty timesIt always surprises us how different the brakes feel after we’ve gone through this process. We do this on a downhill road (ideally at the top of a chairlift ;) ). Stops us having to pedal up to speed a bunch of times, which can make for a serious puff-fest!

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Suspension setup is pretty sensitive to your suspension pressure. Changing the pressure is made a little easier with digital shock pumps. Here's a great quality digital shock pump just for the task :) Features: Digital Gauge. Units can be changed between PSI, bar, kg/cm^2 300psi maximum pressure 80 second auto shut-off Pressure adjust button to finely tune your pressure Rotating hose so it doesn't take up too much space Replaceable coin cell battery (CR2032 3V) Note: These are the same base shock pump as the Rockshox digital (and many other brands) shock pumps are. The differences are: Body colour Adapter type -  this adapter is slightly shorter and has an easy engage lever Branding

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These cable cutters will help you get a clean cut when cutting gear inner, outer and hydraulic cables. None of the fraying that you get with pliers or side-cutters! They have rubber handles and a spring for ease of use. Notes: These cable cutters do not have a crimping surface for attaching cable ends. You can use some pliers for that. As with other cutters, these will ovalise the end of the outer cable. After cutting your outer, push an inner cable through from the other end to open it up and it should be good! To get good leverage these open reasonably wide. The downside of that is if you have small hands they may be difficult to use. If for some reason you are unable to use them please get in touch with us to return them and we will offer a refund.  

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Tubeless inserts reduce wheel damage and improve the feel of your bike. For a long time Cushcore ruled the insert market and none of the cheaper options had decent performance, but Rimpact has changed that. Rimpact are simply a well-performing product at a better price-point than the alternatives. This listing is for a set (two) of inserts with valves. Please consult the rim width diagram at the end of this listing to determine whether this particular product is appropriate for your bike. Rimpact Tubeless Inserts help in the following ways: They minimise the impact force on your rim. We’ve had far less rim dings since riding them. They help stabilise your tyre sidewall. The level of stabilisation will depend on the combination of rim and tyre that you are running. They reduce trail chatter. The extent to which they do this surprised us but it was very welcome 😊 They reduce the chances of damaging your tyre. In late 2022 Rimpact released an update to their inserts (hence V2) which changed the shape slightly to better fit modern rims. They also released some new insert models. We carry all Rimpact models and sell combinations of them so you can mix and match to get your ideal setup. If you're curious about other Rimpact models you can see all of our listings here. Original, and gravel/xc, inserts are made of a single type of foam and provide great performance at a great price point. We ran Original inserts very happily for 6 months at the Christchurch Adventure Park and were very happy with their performance. Pro, and cx, inserts are made from a dual-density foam which provides even more rim protection, tyre stability and tyre damage prevention than the original inserts. EDH inserts also have a dual compound like the PRO model but the outer layer is even more supportive and protective. This is the highest protection model and is best suited for serious downhill riders and for heavy e-bikes. Note that installing the EDH in a 2.4” tyre is quite a strength and patience requiring process. If you’d like to purchase a different model of Rimpact inserts / a combination of them check out our range here. Our experience using RimpactAfter a number of years on Rimpact on our gravity bikes we’ve found our favourite front insert to be the Original model because it has the best vibration damping characteristics and lowest weight. On the rear we prefer the heaviest duty model we can afford/be bothered installing, whether that be a Pro or EDH model. We’ve not tried the XC/Gravel model but have been running the CX model for years. We’ve been impressed by how much smoother it makes our gravel bikes ride and blown away by how much traction we can get at cyclocross races when we drop the tyre pressures to 25psi (and don’t have any issues!). Model Information  Model Size Weight per insert (grams) CX 700C 55 Gravel / XC 29" / 700C  70 27.5" 60 Original V2 29"  110 27.5" 100 Pro 29"  160 27.5" 150 EDH 29" 180 27.5" 170 ​  Notes A note about sealant: Tyre inserts will significantly increase the surface area inside your tyre so we suggest using 30% or so extra sealant than you would usually.If you've got this far, we may also have some clearance stock of old V1 rimpact models. It would be worth having a look as they will be at a discount.  

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DMR Deathgrips are our favorite grips because of their waffle pattern and knurling that provide excellent grip. Additionally, they feature a mushroom on the inner side for added comfort. If you have large hands or prefer a softer grip, choose the thicker version. However, if you prefer a more direct feel of your front wheel, opt for the thinner version. We offer both flanged and flangeless versions of Deathgrips.  This is a pair of refill grips. They do not come with collars, you will need to use your own collars from your last pair :) 

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Here's a decent quality Pedal Wrench which is designed to remove and install 15mm pedals. It has a 26cm long handle, for plenty of leverage, and a comfortable rubber grip. It be used at two different angles, to suit your situation (releasing or tightening). 

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Sometimes it feels like the primary purpose of chains is to slap your chainstay... They wreck your paint and make a hell of a racket! Apply this tape to your bike to reduce the damage done and quieten sounds made while you ride. These seem to do a much better job than plastic frame protectors! This tape is thick, moisture sealing and flame retardant - just in case you shred too hard. Each strip is 25mm wide and comes in whatever length you order. 50cm is plenty enough to apply to a chainstay. Make sure you measure up before purchasing so you know how much you need :)

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Cable outer end caps are useful for interfacing your outers/housings with your brakes, shifters or derailleurs. We sell two different types: Gear (Plastic) and Brake (Alloy). Both types are great quality products which are manufactured by Jagwire. Both are sold as singles or a ten pack. Gear The end caps we sell for gear/shift housing fit standard housing of 4mm outer diameter. Gear ferrules experience low forces so you can get away with plastic ones without issue, you may as well save the money. BrakeThe end caps we sell for brake housing fit standard cable housing of 5mm outer diameter. We only sell brass (metal) brake ferrules because they experience high forces and must be robust.

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This Premium Chain Whip will hold your Cassette still while you remove your cassette lock-ring. Pretty handy when you want to replace your cassette, service your freehub or run a different set of wheels. The total length of this tool is 35cm and it is compatible with 7-12 speed chains. The differences between the Basic and Premium Chain whips are handle length, tool quality, aesthetics and price. The premium chain whip also has a magnet to stop the chain from slapping around, which is a nice touch. We prefer the extra leverage, and comfortable handle, of the Premium tool but we decided to stock both so that you have the choice.

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