Getting shops to bleed your brakes can be bloody expensive. Why not bleed them yourself? Here is some Mineral oil so you can bleed them yourself. We have sourced a high quality fluid which is compatible with the seals in mineral oil brakes such as Shimano, Tektro, TRP, Magura and SRAM. It has a very similar viscosity and colour but smells a bit different to Shimano Mineral Oil. After running this fluid in our own brakes for over a year, we decided to sell it to our customers because it performs rather well. The two sizes on offer are 250mL and 1L. We usually get about four full bleeds, or many lever bleeds, from a 250mL bottle. Before you finish your purchase, make sure you’ve got all the equipment to bleed your brakes. If you're bleeding Shimano brakes, you'll need the following: A bleed kit or just a bleed funnel (if you’ve got the other tools hanging around) Some mineral oil A bleed block Warranty warning:Manufacturers insist that you use official branded fluid products for bleeding your brakes and will likely claim you have voided your warranty if they discover you have used a different fluid to their official products.  On the very low chance that you have an issue with your brakes which will require warranty, we suggest that you re-bleed your brakes with the official oil of that brand.

Read more less

Getting shops to bleed your brakes can be bloody expensive. Some shops charge $70 per end and even when you get the bike back the lever often isn't set up how you like it. And don't even get us started about having to wait up to a month for a service over summer 😅Solve all of that by bleeding your own brakes. It's pretty easy to pick up and, once you've learned, a full bleed takes about an hour for both ends and costs sod all - just the cost of fluid. You'll also be able to do it when you need to - we've saved a lot of rides by bleeding our brakes at the last minute.Here's a kit that we've made for bleeding Shimano brakes. We've made sure to select components that are all chemically compatible and will last well.  If you're looking for a kit that makes bleeding significantly faster and reduces the chance of a mess, consider our premium kits. All kits include: A bleed funnel of your choosing - Plastic or Brass A 24mL 2-part syringe. No rubber seal = no swelling so you should get a decent life out of it Tubing for attaching the syringe to your brake caliper This entire kit is mineral oil compatible so won't swell The choices you have are:Bleed funnel typePlastic bleed funnels are cheaper but the threads on them are easier to damage and tend to have a limited life. Funnels with the brass thread won't get thread wear (unless you really crank it) but are more expensive. Road adapterAn adapter to adapt the bleed funnel to the larger diameter bleed fitting of Shimano drop bar brakes - think road/gravel - Shimano 105, Ultegra, GRX and so on. SecureLink adapterThe SecureLink adapter (that's what we call it) does the following: Guides the hose onto the bleed nipple and reduces the effort required to get it on there Makes the connection significantly more secure which reduces the chance of accidentally pulling the tube off the caliper Eliminates connecting the hose on an angle which can introduce air when pulling the syringe Using this adapter made us brave enough to start bleeding brakes without taking the wheel out! Well, with some other minor precautions... Securelink in action 7mm spannerRequired to open the Shimano bleed port to get fluid flowing. Necessary, but a lot of you have them already!  You will also need: Some mineral oil, we offer either 250mL or 1L A bleed block Need spare parts? If you've got a kit but need to add a part to it, we have a bleed kit spare parts listing here.

Read more less

Here’s a bleed block to space out the pistons of your brake during the bleeding process. There are different shapes of bleed block, make sure you get the right one! Using a bleed block is important for two reasons. 1) It stops you from overfilling the brake system and 2) it gets your pads out of the way so you can contaminate them during bleeding.  Shapes we offer:  Shimano 2 piston (not road) & Tektro 2 piston: fits Shimano b05s and g02s shape pads as well as 2 piston tektro brakesShimamo 4 piston: fits Shimano d02s shape padsShimano Road: Fits Shimano drop bar brakes - k02s shape padsSRAM LevelSRAM GuideSRAM Code SRAM Road Magura MT5/MT7 Bleed block features: We may be the only company in the world to care about bleed block features... We designed these into all of our blocks: A chamfered leading-edge allows you to put your bleed block into your brakes more easily without it catching on the pistons.A handle that allows you to guide the bleed block into the caliper more easily. Notes The shimano 2 piston version doesn't have a handle on account of some of these calipers not being accessible from the top of the caliper.

Read more less

Here's 2m of 1.1mm Stainless Steel Shift Cable made by Jagwire. It is suitable for SRAM and Shimano setups. It's been pre-stretched, so it doesn't stretch as much for you, and it's surface has been smoothed to ensure your shifting is low friction. On top of that, it's stainless steel so it won't corrode. Also included is two cable end caps - just in case. You even get to choose what colour they are! :)

Read more less

Brake pads are the most regularly replaced part of a mountain bike. Sadly, pads tend to be expensive and perform well OR cheap and perform poorly. These pads are different: they perform well at a reasonable price. These brake pads are for brakes which fit Shimano Saint/4-Piston brake pads. The equivalent Shimano pad models are D02S, D03S, H03A, H03C, N03A, N04C, P03A, P04C . A list of brake models these pads are compatible with can be found in the compatibility tab above. We spent months testing a bunch of different brake pads under fifteen accomplished riders to find brake pads which perform well at a great price. Our favourite pads were Frictive pads, a new local brand. Our test riders found the performance of these pads comparable to the big name brands you know and love. We are stoked to finally see a NZ brand offering good pads and trying to address the generally overpriced market for braking products, it’s something we can fully get on-board with. Performance Guarantee: Put simply, these pads perform well. We will refund you if you disagree. Easy as. Just let us know if you’re unsatisfied and we’ll sort the rest. Further details about the Performance Guarantee can be found here.Notes: Descriptions of the performance differences between pad compounds and answers to some frequently asked questions can be found on the tabs above We recommend that you try both pad compounds to get a feel for the differences so you can make an informed choice about your preferred compound. Even at downhill World Cups, different riders use different compounds as it's a personal preference. We’re excited to be able to offer these pads at prices that make personal pad testing possible for more riders! FAQ Do I need Fins?Probably not. Finned pads decrease the chance of fade in really heavy braking situations. Brake fade is the reduction in stopping power that occurs when brakes are very hot. Finned pads increase the convective surface area (the area exposed to air flow) of your braking system. An increased convective surface area increases the rate of heat dissipation, which in turn decreases the temperature that your brakes run at for a given amount of braking. A lower temperature for a given amount of braking means that fins decrease brake fade. Additionally, lower operating temperatures reduce the wear rate of the pads. That is to say that fins can improve hot braking performance and decrease pad wear. But unless you experience brake fade, fins will not improve your braking performance noticeably. Most riders will never experience brake fade and thus will not benefit from finned pads. The slightly decreased wear rate of finned pads does not justify the large cost difference. Even the most experienced riders in our test group felt no need to “upgrade” to finned pads. What compound should I run on an e-bike?E-bikes are like normal bikes except they are roughly 10kg heavier. In terms of braking requirements, there is no difference between riding an e-bike and riding a normal bike after eating 10kg of pies. Contrary to what marketing may tell you, e-bikes don't require any special brake pad materials or rotor type. We suggest you try Resin pads and Metallic pads to get a feel for the differences and then make a decision based on your own experiences. Refer to the “Compound Differences” tab for more information. Compatibility Shimano: - XTR BR-M9120, - XT BR-M8120 / M8020, - SLX BR-M7120, - DEORE BR-M6120, BR-MT420, - SAINT BR-M820 / M810, - ZEE BR-M640, BR-MT420, BR-MT520Tektro / TRP- Quadiem, Quadiem SL- Slate T4- HD-M750, HD-M745, HD-M735, HD-E725,- DH Evo Compound Differences PowerResin tend to have slightly more bite when cold than Metallic. Metallic perform better at higher temperatures, i.e. very long descentsModulationResin have a progressive feel whereas Metallic are more on/off. It is easier to crawl down steep things without skidding with ResinDurabilityFor a given amount of riding you would use roughly 3 pairs of Resin pads to each pair of MetallicNoiseResin are very quiet, Metallic are always a bit noisier. At high temperatures, or in the wet, Metallic sometimes screech (you know the sound)Wet ridingMetallic tend to outperform Resin in the wetFadeBrake fade is the reduction in stopping power that occurs when brakes are very hot. Resin tend to fade at lower temperature than Metallic. That said, with these Resin pads we haven't been able to get fade in any situation - including the infamous Mt Oxford descent! Rotor Wear RateResin pads cause lower wear to your rotor than Metallic padsTotal Ongoing CostsEven after accounting for the lower rotor wear rate from Resin pads, Metallic pads will cost you about half as much as Resin pads in the long term for total brake maintenance costs Maximizing Performance To maximize the braking force from new pads it is important to bed them in systematically. It is tempting to forgo this step, but this will leave performance on the table. 'Just riding' a new pair of pads results in inferior braking compared to intentionally bedding in those same pads. A good bedding in process transfers an even layer of brake pad material to the rotor. Pad material transferred to the rotor generates more friction with the pad than the rotor material does. Think about the difference between two grippy surfaces touching versus two slick surfaces. Bedding in your pads creates the best possible match between your pad and rotor surfaces. Which in turn maximizes braking force. PROCEDURE1) Clean your rotor with a non-residual cleaner like isopropyl alchohol (you can forgo this step if you don’t have any around)2) Install pads3) Install wheel4) Pedal bike up to speed and apply your brakes with a consistent pressure (gently at first is best).5) Take off brakes before you stop. Stopping fully ends up causing an uneven transfer of pad material6) Repeat steps 4-5 ten to twenty timesIt always surprises us how different the brakes feel after we’ve gone through this process. We do this on a downhill road (ideally at the top of a chairlift ;) ). Stops us having to pedal up to speed a bunch of times, which can make for a serious puff-fest!

Read more less

Post-to-Post brake adapters are for mounting Post type disc calipers to Post type frames/forks. The adapters come in a number of different sizes, be careful to select the correct one! Each adapter comes with washers and bolts as per the product photos. Adapters should be used to adapt from your fork/frame post mount to the rotor size desired. E.g. if you have 180mm post mount on your fork and you want to run a 203mm rotor then you should get a 180mm-203mm adapter. A different scenario is if you already have an adapter on your frame. E.g. if you have a 180mm rotor with an existing 160mm-180mm adapter purchase a 160mm-203mm adapter to replace your existing adapter.  There is a little bit of variation in actual caliper, rotor and mount designs so in some cases the washer included may need to sit between the mount and adapter to get the correct spacing. Please note:  These adapters will not work with flatmount brakes on road/gravel bikes. If you want to be able to return the adapter you'll need to keep it in mint condition which is best achieved by nipping the bolts up very lightly to check that you're happy with radial alignment   After something for 200mm rotors? We don’t sell anything for them, sorry. Why? We think they’re a false economy. Only SRAM offers supports 200mm rotors, and they’re quite expensive - at least $100 each. By installing a 200mm rotor you’re locked into replacing that with an expensive 200mm rotor each time it needs replacing. At Outspoken we're all about well-performing products at reasonable prices, and 200mm rotors simply don't pass the sniff test for us. If you switch to a 203mm rotor, you can get comparable performance rotors for a fraction of the price, making future replacements much cheaper. As of 2 Feb 2026, it costs at least $120 for a SRAM centerline rotor and $60 for a 40P (160mm-200mm) SRAM adapter - a total of $180. From us, you can get a fantastic 203mm rotor ($33) and 180-203mm adapter ($15) for a total of $48. And that’s with our performance guarantee on the rotor. However, if you are set on 200mm rotors, you can buy official SRAM adapters (about $60 each). Here’s a table from SRAM about their models. And finally, the 200mm - 203mm adapter Introducing the 200-203mm adapter. Yes, it's two washers (aka rocket science). Place one over each bolt under the caliper to space it outwards. This will allow you to get that additional "3mm" (of diameter, not radius) to run standard-sized discs, instead of being locked into expensive sram rotors. Use it to space a 200mm setup to a 203mm rotor. Or use it in conjunction with an adapter, for example spacing a 200mm fork mount to a 220mm rotor.  The washers are stainless steel. No, we don't sell them in black 😊

Read more less

Slickoleum Light Grease is the king of all mountain bike seal greases. Mechanics use it for fork seals, shock seals, dropper post seals and even as a freehub grease.  Fun fact: SRAM use slickoleum to manufacture their very similar product: SRAM butter. But that costs about $20 for an ounce. Why not get the original at a better price?

Read more less

Brakes feeling terrible? Freshen 'em up with a new pair of pads. Shimano B05S pads have a resin braking surface which has better modulation and makes less noise than sintered (metallic) pads. The B05S model is a direct replacement for the old B01S and B03S models. We offer two versions of these pads. Normal packaging pads are in the standard blue Shimano packaging. Workshop packaging pads are in a small plastic bag and are a bit cheaper, but don't worry - they are authentic Shimano pads.  These pads are compatible with the following brake models:LX BR-T675, Deore BR-T615 / Alivio BR-M4050 / Acera BR-M3050 / Tourney BR-TX805 / Nexave BR-C501 / other: BR-M575, BR-M525, BR-M506, BR-M505, BR-M495, BR-M486, BR-M485, BR-M475, BR-M465, BR-M447, BR-M446, BR-M445, BR-M416, BR-M416A, BR-M415, BR-M395, BR-M375, BR-M365, BR-M355, BR-M315, BR-MT500. These pads also fit some models of tektro brakes --- check that the shape of your pad is the same as that in our photo

Read more less

Squirt is a wax-based lube. When compared to oil-based lubes, it noticeably decreases friction, noise and lasts longer. As an added bonus, you don't even have to clean squirt off your chain - just apply more whenever you need it!  Squirt lube is one of our favourite chain lubricants. The alternative, which we prefer a bit more, is Smoove, which we sell here. Smoove is more expensive, but in our experience, it lasts longer and better reduces drivetrain noise.

Read more less

Brake pads are the most regularly replaced part of a mountain bike. Sadly, pads tend to be expensive and perform well OR cheap and perform poorly. These pads are different: they perform well at a reasonable price. These brake pads are for brakes which fit Shimano BR-M446 brake pads. The equivalent Shimano pad models are B01S - B05S and E01S. A list of brake models these pads are compatible with can be found in the compatibility tab above. We spent months testing a bunch of different brake pads under fifteen accomplished riders to find brake pads which perform well at a great price. Our favourite pads were Frictive pads, a new local brand. Our test riders found the performance of these pads comparable to the big name brands you know and love. We are stoked to finally see a NZ brand offering good pads and trying to address the generally overpriced market for braking products, it’s something we can fully get on-board with. Performance Guarantee: Put simply, these pads perform well. We will refund you if you disagree. Easy as. Just let us know if you’re unsatisfied and we’ll sort the rest. Further details about the Performance Guarantee can be found here.Notes: Please note that some brakes that use "Shimano B01S pads" (which these replace) have "Resin Only" Rotors. If this is you, it would be wise to stick with that recommendation and purchase Resin pads.  Descriptions of the performance differences between pad compounds and answers to some frequently asked questions can be found on the tabs above We recommend that you try both pad compounds to get a feel for the differences so you can make an informed choice about your preferred compound. Even at downhill World Cups, different riders use different compounds as it's a personal preference. We’re excited to be able to offer these pads at prices that make personal pad testing possible for more riders! FAQ Do I need Fins?Probably not. Finned pads decrease the chance of fade in really heavy braking situations. Brake fade is the reduction in stopping power that occurs when brakes are very hot. Finned pads increase the convective surface area (the area exposed to air flow) of your braking system. An increased convective surface area increases the rate of heat dissipation, which in turn decreases the temperature that your brakes run at for a given amount of braking. A lower temperature for a given amount of braking means that fins decrease brake fade. Additionally, lower operating temperatures reduce the wear rate of the pads. That is to say that fins can improve hot braking performance and decrease pad wear. But unless you experience brake fade, fins will not improve your braking performance noticeably. Most riders will never experience brake fade and thus will not benefit from finned pads. The slightly decreased wear rate of finned pads does not justify the large cost difference. Even the most experienced riders in our test group felt no need to “upgrade” to finned pads. What compound should I run on an e-bike?E-bikes are like normal bikes except they are roughly 10kg heavier. In terms of braking requirements, there is no difference between riding an e-bike and riding a normal bike after eating 10kg of pies. Contrary to what marketing may tell you, e-bikes don't require any special brake pad materials or rotor type. We suggest you try Resin pads and Metallic pads to get a feel for the differences and then make a decision based on your own experiences. Refer to the “Compound Differences” tab for more information. Compatibility Shimano: Models from: Deore, LX, Alivio, Acera, Altus- MT500 - MT 400- MT200 - BR-M 675- BR-T 615 - BR-M 575- BR-M 525 - BR-M 515- BR-M 505 - BR-M 495- BR-M 485 - BR-M 475- BR-M 465 - BR-M 445- BR-M 395 - BR-M 375- BR-M 355 - BR-M 315- BR-M 4050 - BR-M 3050TRP/Tektro: - Hylex - HY/RD- Spyre(SLC) - Spyke- Dash Sport - Orion S- Gemini(SL) - Draco2- HDC330 - HD-M330 - Auriga, - Dorado- Aquila - Aries- MD-M280 - Mira- Volans - Vela Compound Differences PowerResin tend to have slightly more bite when cold than Metallic. Metallic perform better at higher temperatures, i.e. very long descentsModulationResin have a progressive feel whereas Metallic are more on/off. It is easier to crawl down steep things without skidding with ResinDurabilityFor a given amount of riding you would use roughly 3 pairs of Resin pads to each pair of MetallicNoiseResin are very quiet, Metallic are always a bit noisier. At high temperatures, or in the wet, Metallic sometimes screech (you know the sound)Wet ridingMetallic tend to outperform Resin in the wetFadeBrake fade is the reduction in stopping power that occurs when brakes are very hot. Resin tend to fade at lower temperature than Metallic. That said, with these Resin pads we haven't been able to get fade in any situation - including the infamous Mt Oxford descent! Rotor Wear RateResin pads cause lower wear to your rotor than Metallic padsTotal Ongoing CostsEven after accounting for the lower rotor wear rate from Resin pads, Metallic pads will cost you about half as much as Resin pads in the long term for total brake maintenance costs Maximizing Performance To maximize the braking force from new pads it is important to bed them in systematically. It is tempting to forgo this step, but this will leave performance on the table. 'Just riding' a new pair of pads results in inferior braking compared to intentionally bedding in those same pads. A good bedding in process transfers an even layer of brake pad material to the rotor. Pad material transferred to the rotor generates more friction with the pad than the rotor material does. Think about the difference between two grippy surfaces touching versus two slick surfaces. Bedding in your pads creates the best possible match between your pad and rotor surfaces. Which in turn maximizes braking force. PROCEDURE1) Clean your rotor with a non-residual cleaner like isopropyl alchohol (you can forgo this step if you don’t have any around)2) Install pads3) Install wheel4) Pedal bike up to speed and apply your brakes with a consistent pressure (gently at first is best).5) Take off brakes before you stop. Stopping fully ends up causing an uneven transfer of pad material6) Repeat steps 4-5 ten to twenty timesIt always surprises us how different the brakes feel after we’ve gone through this process. We do this on a downhill road (ideally at the top of a chairlift ;) ). Stops us having to pedal up to speed a bunch of times, which can make for a serious puff-fest!

Read more less

SKF low friction seals have noticeably lower friction than any other seals that we have tried. Lower friction reduces the force required to move your fork (breakaway force) which increases traction on your front wheel. Each seal kit contains all of the parts you need for a lower service - a pair of seals, foam rings and crush washers. Make sure you check your forks service manual to determine which type of seal you should be ordering. Servicing forks yourself Getting your fork serviced at a shop can be fairly darn expensive and can leave you without a bike for a while. Luckily, performing a fork lowers service (about 80% of fork services) yourself is pretty easy with a few cheap tools.  The other parts you'll need to do a lower service on your forks are: A Seal Driver (only needed for flangeless seals) Suspension Grease Suspension Oil Whats the deal with flanged and flangeless seals? Flanged seals are easier to install but provide less resistance to the seal popping out while riding. Fox forks originally used flanged seals and changed around the year 2015 (depending on fork model) to flangeless seals. Rockshox forks can use either flanged or flangeless so we've decided to just stock the flangeless version.  Note about Rockshox 32mm seals Rockshox uses two different outer diameter sizes on their fork seals. Be careful to order the correct one! 32mm x 41mm Flangeless variation is for all seals with a 41mm outer diameter. This includes, but is not limited to, the following: RS Bluto, SID B1 (2017+), Sektor C1 (2019+), Sektor Silver A2/TK B1 (2017+)RS1, Reba A7 (2018). The 32mm x 42mm Flanged variation is for all seals with a 42mm outer diameter. Most Rockshox 32mm forks until 2017 use these seals. If your fork is not on the 32mm x 41mm list above then these are the seals!

Read more less

Here's some Jagwire 4mm Slick-lube gear housing, suitable for SRAM and Shimano setups. In the centre is a long lasting slick lubricant that reduces shifting friction and reduces water penetration. Encompassing that are strands of wire which reduce the chance of the housing kinking and messing up your shifting. All of this makes for a low friction and long lasting gear housing! We sell this in 2m and 10m lengths. 2m will do a long cable for all non-tandem bikes (except extra extra extra long bikes). 10m is slightly cheaper per metre, but you also get much better usage of cable (less wastage, so even cheaper again). And to top it off, we include some ferrules for your cable. If you need some more ferrules, have a look here. Offcuts: The 50 metre rolls we purchase aren't quite 50 metres after all... Instead of binning the small bit at the end, we offer it for you to purchase. We don't stock these lengths as standard, it's only if a bit is cut off. A 1-1.5m offcut will be somewhere between 1m and 1.5m long, the same is true for other lengths of offcuts. Please don't email us asking when we will have offcuts in stock next 😅 Other notes: Gear housing comes in 4mm and 5mm diameters. You can use either as long as you use the right ferrules! This cable is 4mm in diameter since it is most common Your housing may need a few days to relax after being opened, it may have been stored in a circle for a while...

Read more less