Getting shops to bleed your brakes can be bloody expensive. Why not bleed them yourself? Here is some Mineral oil so you can bleed them yourself. We have sourced a high quality fluid which is compatible with the seals in mineral oil brakes such as Shimano, Tektro, TRP, Magura and SRAM. It has a very similar viscosity and colour but smells a bit different to Shimano Mineral Oil. After running this fluid in our own brakes for over a year, we decided to sell it to our customers because it performs rather well. The two sizes on offer are 250mL and 1L. We usually get about four full bleeds, or many lever bleeds, from a 250mL bottle. Before you finish your purchase, make sure you’ve got all the equipment to bleed your brakes. If you're bleeding Shimano brakes, you'll need the following: A bleed kit or just a bleed funnel (if you’ve got the other tools hanging around) Some mineral oil A bleed block Warranty warning:Manufacturers insist that you use official branded fluid products for bleeding your brakes and will likely claim you have voided your warranty if they discover you have used a different fluid to their official products.  On the very low chance that you have an issue with your brakes which will require warranty, we suggest that you re-bleed your brakes with the official oil of that brand.

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Getting shops to bleed your brakes can be bloody expensive. Some shops charge $70 per end and even when you get the bike back the lever often isn't set up how you like it. And don't even get us started about having to wait up to a month for a service over summer 😅Solve all of that by bleeding your own brakes. It's pretty easy to pick up and, once you've learned, a full bleed takes about an hour for both ends and costs sod all - just the cost of fluid. You'll also be able to do it when you need to - we've saved a lot of rides by bleeding our brakes at the last minute.Here's a kit that we've made for bleeding Shimano brakes. We've made sure to select components that are all chemically compatible and will last well.  If you're looking for a kit that makes bleeding significantly faster and reduces the chance of a mess, consider our premium kits. All kits include: A bleed funnel of your choosing - Plastic or Brass A 24mL 2-part syringe. No rubber seal = no swelling so you should get a decent life out of it Tubing for attaching the syringe to your brake caliper This entire kit is mineral oil compatible so won't swell The choices you have are:Bleed funnel typePlastic bleed funnels are cheaper but the threads on them are easier to damage and tend to have a limited life. Funnels with the brass thread won't get thread wear (unless you really crank it) but are more expensive. Road adapterAn adapter to adapt the bleed funnel to the larger diameter bleed fitting of Shimano drop bar brakes - think road/gravel - Shimano 105, Ultegra, GRX and so on. SecureLink adapterThe SecureLink adapter (that's what we call it) does the following: Guides the hose onto the bleed nipple and reduces the effort required to get it on there Makes the connection significantly more secure which reduces the chance of accidentally pulling the tube off the caliper Eliminates connecting the hose on an angle which can introduce air when pulling the syringe Using this adapter made us brave enough to start bleeding brakes without taking the wheel out! Well, with some other minor precautions... Securelink in action 7mm spannerRequired to open the Shimano bleed port to get fluid flowing. Necessary, but a lot of you have them already!  You will also need: Some mineral oil, we offer either 250mL or 1L A bleed block Need spare parts? If you've got a kit but need to add a part to it, we have a bleed kit spare parts listing here.

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Here’s a bleed block to space out the pistons of your brake during the bleeding process. There are different shapes of bleed block, make sure you get the right one! Using a bleed block is important for two reasons. 1) It stops you from overfilling the brake system and 2) it gets your pads out of the way so you can contaminate them during bleeding.  Shapes we offer:  Shimano 2 piston (not road) & Tektro 2 piston: fits Shimano b05s and g02s shape pads as well as 2 piston tektro brakesShimamo 4 piston: fits Shimano d02s shape padsShimano Road: Fits Shimano drop bar brakes - k02s shape padsSRAM LevelSRAM GuideSRAM Code SRAM Road Magura MT5/MT7 Bleed block features: We may be the only company in the world to care about bleed block features... We designed these into all of our blocks: A chamfered leading-edge allows you to put your bleed block into your brakes more easily without it catching on the pistons.A handle that allows you to guide the bleed block into the caliper more easily. Notes The shimano 2 piston version doesn't have a handle on account of some of these calipers not being accessible from the top of the caliper.

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Getting shops to bleed your brakes can be bloody expensive. Some shops charge $70 per end, and when you get the bike back the lever often isn't set up how you like it. And don't even get us started about the wait times for servicing over summer 😅 Solve all of that by bleeding your own brakes. It's pretty easy to pick up and, once you've learned, a full bleed takes about an hour for both ends and costs sod all - just the cost of fluid. You'll also be able to do it when you need to - we've saved a lot of rides by bleeding our brakes at the last minute. Here's a kit that we've made for bleeding SRAM/Avid DOT 5.1 based brakes. We've selected components that are all DOT fluid compatible and will last well. During our research, we were horrified that some kits didn't use DOT-compatible tubing, including a notable local brand. Non-compatible tubing swells after months and will only do limited bleeds before splitting. These kits include all you need to bleed all Avid and SRAM DOT 5.1 fluid based brakes. They are also compatible with all older type Formula hydraulic brakes (Oro, C1, R1, R0, K24, K18…). They are not compatible with Formula Cura or any other mineral oil brake.All kits include: 2x 30mL 3-part syringes with DOT-compatible plungers1x Torx T10 wrench The fitting options are: 2x Threaded: For avid/sram brakes older than 2016 model year. 1x Threaded + 1x Bleeding Edge: For brakes 2017 model year or newer2x Threaded + 1x Bleeding Edge: If you want to be able to bleed any avid/sram brake Other notes You will also need a bleed block to perform the service You can also add 250mL of Liqui Moly DOT 5.1 fluid if you need some. The shelf life of this is 12 months from the date of opening. Please ignore the cheeky "expiry" date printed on the bottle by the manufacturer, this seems disingenous to us.  Our favourite part of these kits is the tubing, which can be clamped without being a bodybuilder - if you've ever used an avid kit you'll know what we are talking about... The bleeding edge fitting only works on bleeding edge brakes and does not work for reverb bleeds

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A handy dandy device for measuring and injecting fluids. There's a few sizes to choose from. Useful for whatever you want to do with it... Here's some examples of what we use these for: Injecting tubeless sealant into our wheels through our valve stem so we don't get it everywhere Measuring out fork fluid - use an injector instead of your old graduated cup Spraying a jet of water at our partner just to be a nuisance Please note: The rubber seals on these require lubrication to move smoothly. If your syringe becomes a bit tired, try taking the plunger out and lubricating the seal with whatever fluid you are using. Put it back into the outer and it should be good!

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Here's a bleed kit for bleeding Tektro & TRP brakes. It contains a syringe, tubing with a caliper adapter and a bleed funnel with an adapter for the lever.  We used to sell kits with two syringes but we've found that bleeding brakes with a funnel is much better than two syringes. The biggest perk though, is you can now do a lever bleed (like on shimano brakes). You'll still need to get some mineral oil and we recommend making a bleed block of some sort for your brakes. 

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Getting shops to bleed your brakes can be bloody expensive. Why not bleed them yourself? Here’s a bleed funnel for bleeding Shimano brakes. Before you finish your purchase, make sure you’ve got all the equipment to bleed your brakes. You'll need the following: A bleed kit or just a bleed funnel (if you’ve got the other tools hanging around)Some mineral oil, we offer either 250mL or 1LA bleed block   The choices you have are:Bleed funnel typePlastic bleed funnels are cheaper but the threads on them are easier to damage and tend to have a limited life. Funnels with the brass fitting won't get thread wear but are more expensive. Road adapterAn adapter to adapt the bled funnel to the larger diameter threads on the brake lever of Shimano drop bar brakes - think road/gravel - Shimano 105, Ultegra, GRX and so on. Essential if you need it.   

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Every time we lose our bleed nipple cap we manage to get mud all over the nipple. Next time we bleed our brakes it ends up introducing dirt into the brake fluid which decreases the quality of the bleed. Here's a replacement bleed nipple to sort that out for you. Note: Please be careful with these when you take them off for a bleed. If you are a bit too rough you can break them. Sadly we couldn't find a supplier which offered more robust ones. Other than breaking a little easier than we would like, we've been using these for quite a while and they work well! 

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Got a brake which needs shortening? You'll need to get yourself an Olive & Connector to put the brake hose back into your brake lever. There are two types of olive & hose inserts: Standard:These olives and inserts fit all standard size avid/SRAM hoses, but won't work on the newest models. These fit all old avid brakes and older models of SRAM brakes. These WILL NOT fit brakes with Stealth-A-Majig fittings. You can identify Stealth-A-Majig fitting brakes by thoroughly looking over the lever and seeing if it says "Stealth-A-Majig" somewhere, if not this is your best bet. They are not backwards compatible. Stealthmajig:Stealthmajig compatible Olive and hose inserts are required for Stealthmajig type lever brakes. They can also be used on older Avid and Sram brakes. Whilst they are more expensive, their advantage lays in re-usability and ease of use. A T8 torx wrench is required to screw this in. If you are cutting your brake hose it's worth having a hose clamp to help out. You can grab one here.

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Needing DOT 5.1 fluid to bleed your brakes? This will do the trick! It costs about half as much as SRAM fluid and, as with anything Liqui Moly, it's great quality stuff! The shelf life of DOT 5.1 is 12 months from the date of opening. In reality you can get more out of it if you would like to. Please ignore the cheeky "expiry" date printed on the bottle by the manufacturer, this seems disingenuous to us. 

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Having issues with some of your brake pistons not moving properly? If so, you could be leaving significant brake performance on the table. Luckily, it’s a fairly simple thing to fix if you’ve got the right tool. Here's a tool that can be used on a variety of 2 and 4 piston brakes. The tool constrains all but 1 of the pistons so you can get the stuck piston moving with ease. Just drop the tool into your brake, pull the brake lever and hey presto, the stuck piston will move. Clean the piston with a cotton bud and gently press the piston back into the brake caliper with your tyre lever. If you want to clean them all, push them all back with your tyre lever and do them one at a time. Put simply, this tool makes it easy to advance a brake piston as far as possible without popping it completely out of the caliper. This allows for as much of the piston to be cleaned as possible, which helps you maximise your braking performance. The tool looks a bit odd, but between rotating and flipping the tool you can extend any brake piston. It also has a chamfer on the leading edges which makes it easier to insert in your brake caliper. We promise that the tool doesn't look nearly as bad as the product image, we just have been without photography resources recently and wanted to list it anyway. Cleaning procedure: Carefully push all pistons back into the caliper using a tyre lever Insert this tool. Put the retaining pin through the tool and caliper to keep it in place Pump the brake and watch that the piston on the side of the tool with the cutout extends Stop once the piston hits the tool - feel free to grab the brake lever a few times Remove the tool Clean the sides of the piston - we use isopropyl alcohol and cotton swabs Push the piston back into the caliper with your tyre lever Repeat with other pistons Optional - apply a droplet of brake oil to the piston surface before pushing it back in. Only do this if you are going to douse the caliper with alcohol to clean it after the procedure, you don't want any rogue fluid hanging around! While it is possible to perform this job on 2 piston brakes by carefully constraining 1 piston with a plastic tyre lever and pulling the brake lever, this tool makes it a whole lot easier and ensures you don’t pop the piston right out of the caliper. Compatibility: Shimano 4 Piston - This tool works on all Shimano 4 piston calipers and will probably work on any other brake that can accept this brake pad type Sram Guide - Works for all Sram Guide brakes except for Guide RE - they use the Sram Code tool. The brake pad type looks like this. Sram Code - Works on Sram code and Sram Guide RE brake calipers. The brake pad type looks like this. Shimano 2 Piston (not road) & Tektro - Works on all non-road/gravel shimano 2 piston mountain bike brake calipers as well as other brakes using either this pad type or this pad type. Another common brake type this works for is tektro 2 piston brakes Shimano Road - works on Shimano road and gravel brake calipers - or any brake using this pad type Sram Level and Elixer - Works on any brake using this style of pad, as long as the brake pads can be inserted from the top. Here's roughly what the tool will look like when being used Park tool has this video available which explains the process without using this tool on 2 piston brakes. It's the same procedure for 4 piston brakes, just use this tool.

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Here's a bleed kit for bleeding Magura brakes. It contains a syringe, tubing with a caliper adapter and a bleed funnel with an adapter for the lever. Conveniently Magura has used this connection system in their brakes for over ten years!  We used to sell kits with two syringes but we've found that bleeding brakes with a funnel is much better than two syringes. The biggest perk though, is you can now do a lever bleed (like on shimano brakes). You'll still need to get some mineral oil and we recommend making a bleed block of some sort for your brakes. 

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