DMR Deathgrips are our favorite grips because of their waffle pattern and knurling that provide excellent grip. Additionally, they feature a mushroom on the inner side for added comfort. If you have large hands or prefer a softer grip, choose the thicker version. However, if you prefer a more direct feel of your front wheel, opt for the thinner version. We offer both flanged and flangeless versions of Deathgrips; this is the flangeless version. Fancy a bling pair? Pay a little extra and get custom colour collars!

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This Basic Cassette Removal Tool is made to remove your cassette. It has a supporting centre pin, which reduces the chances of you aligning it at a funny angle on your cassette - which helps to not strip it. It also has a handle which provides good leverage and really helps to align the tool with your cassette spline. The total length of this tool is 24cm. This will remove Shimano HG style cassettes - so pretty much anything that is not Campy standard. Yes, that includes SRAM. This tool can also be used to remove Shimano Centerlock rotors. The differences between the Basic and Premium Basic Cassette tools are handle length, tool quality, aesthetics and price. We prefer the more comfortable handle and extra leverage of the Premium tool, but we decided to stock both so that you have the choice.

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Brake pads are the most regularly replaced part of a mountain bike. Sadly, pads tend to be expensive and perform well OR cheap and perform poorly. These pads are different: they perform well at a reasonable price. These brake pads are for Magura MT5 and MT5 brakes. The 2pc version is cheaper but the 4pc version tends to align better and rub less. The 2pc version can be found here. We spent months testing a bunch of different brake pads under fifteen accomplished riders to find brake pads which perform well at a great price. Our favourite pads were Frictive pads, a new local brand. Our test riders found the performance of these pads comparable to the big name brands you know and love. We are stoked to finally see a NZ brand offering good pads and trying to address the generally overpriced market for braking products, it’s something we can fully get on-board with. Performance Guarantee:Put simply, these pads perform well. We will refund you if you disagree. Easy as. Just let us know if you’re unsatisfied and we’ll sort the rest. Further details about the Performance Guarantee can be found here.Notes: Descriptions of the performance differences between pad compounds and answers to some frequently asked questions can be found on the tabs above We recommend that you try both pad compounds to get a feel for the differences so you can make an informed choice about your preferred compound. Even at downhill World Cups, different riders use different compounds as it's a personal preference. We’re excited to be able to offer these pads at prices that make personal pad testing possible for more riders! FAQ Do I need Fins?Probably not. Finned pads decrease the chance of fade in really heavy braking situations. Brake fade is the reduction in stopping power that occurs when brakes are very hot. Finned pads increase the convective surface area (the area exposed to air flow) of your braking system. An increased convective surface area increases the rate of heat dissipation, which in turn decreases the temperature that your brakes run at for a given amount of braking. A lower temperature for a given amount of braking means that fins decrease brake fade. Additionally, lower operating temperatures reduce the wear rate of the pads. That is to say that fins can improve hot braking performance and decrease pad wear. But unless you experience brake fade, fins will not improve your braking performance noticeably. Most riders will never experience brake fade and thus will not benefit from finned pads. The slightly decreased wear rate of finned pads does not justify the large cost difference. Even the most experienced riders in our test group felt no need to “upgrade” to finned pads. What compound should I run on an e-bike?E-bikes are like normal bikes except they are roughly 10kg heavier. In terms of braking requirements, there is no difference between riding an e-bike and riding a normal bike after eating 10kg of pies. Contrary to what marketing may tell you, e-bikes don't require any special brake pad materials or rotor type. We suggest you try Resin pads and Metallic pads to get a feel for the differences and then make a decision based on your own experiences. Refer to the “Compound Differences” tab for more information. Compound Differences PowerResin tend to have slightly more bite when cold than Metallic. Metallic perform better at higher temperatures, i.e. very long descentsModulationResin have a progressive feel whereas Metallic are more on/off. It is easier to crawl down steep things without skidding with ResinDurabilityFor a given amount of riding you would use roughly 3 pairs of Resin pads to each pair of MetallicNoiseResin are very quiet, Metallic are always a bit noisier. At high temperatures, or in the wet, Metallic sometimes screech (you know the sound)Wet ridingMetallic tend to outperform Resin in the wetFadeBrake fade is the reduction in stopping power that occurs when brakes are very hot. Resin tend to fade at lower temperature than Metallic. That said, with these Resin pads we haven't been able to get fade in any situation - including the infamous Mt Oxford descent! Rotor Wear RateResin pads cause lower wear to your rotor than Metallic padsTotal Ongoing CostsEven after accounting for the lower rotor wear rate from Resin pads, Metallic pads will cost you about half as much as Resin pads in the long term for total brake maintenance costs Maximizing Performance To maximize the braking force from new pads it is important to bed them in systematically. It is tempting to forgo this step, but this will leave performance on the table. 'Just riding' a new pair of pads results in inferior braking compared to intentionally bedding in those same pads. A good bedding in process transfers an even layer of brake pad material to the rotor. Pad material transferred to the rotor generates more friction with the pad than the rotor material does. Think about the difference between two grippy surfaces touching versus two slick surfaces. Bedding in your pads creates the best possible match between your pad and rotor surfaces. Which in turn maximizes braking force. PROCEDURE1) Clean your rotor with a non-residual cleaner like isopropyl alchohol (you can forgo this step if you don’t have any around)2) Install pads3) Install wheel4) Pedal bike up to speed and apply your brakes with a consistent pressure (gently at first is best).5) Take off brakes before you stop. Stopping fully ends up causing an uneven transfer of pad material6) Repeat steps 4-5 ten to twenty timesIt always surprises us how different the brakes feel after we’ve gone through this process. We do this on a downhill road (ideally at the top of a chairlift ;) ). Stops us having to pedal up to speed a bunch of times, which can make for a serious puff-fest!

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The most effective way of reducing noise on your bike is to reduce chain-slap. STFU Bike was developed with Chris Kovarik (a.k.a. Karver) and is the best product on the market for this job. Included in the product are two adjustable Drivetrain Damping modules that mount to your swingarm. When your chain is installed through STFU it is encased in muted rubber - chain-slap still happens it just causes much less noise. Important note: When you install this product ensure the cable tie is pulled quite tight using pliers. Re-tighten the cable ties after every second ride for the first 10 rides as they tend to stretch. If the cable ties stretch too much the product can rotate and go through your spokes which will cause significant damage to it (but your wheel will be fine). Compatibility: Trail - Suits bikes with 1x gearing (single chain ring)  and 9 - 13 speed with up to a 52 tooth cassette DH 7 Speed - Suits 7 speed downhill bikes with up to a 26 tooth cassette DH 10 Speed - Designed around 10 speed shimano style downhill drive-train with up to a 32 tooth cassette. Suitable for 8-12 speed Installation:Instructions on how to install STFU Bike can be found on the STFU Bike website.

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Rock that custom colour scheme with 1.8mm cable end caps in a variety of colours 😊

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Here's a bleed kit for bleeding Magura brakes. It contains a syringe, tubing with a caliper adapter and a bleed funnel with an adapter for the lever. Conveniently Magura has used this connection system in their brakes for over ten years!  We used to sell kits with two syringes but we've found that bleeding brakes with a funnel is much better than two syringes. The biggest perk though, is you can now do a lever bleed (like on shimano brakes). You'll still need to get some mineral oil and we recommend making a bleed block of some sort for your brakes. 

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Brake pads are the most regularly replaced part of a mountain bike. Sadly, pads tend to be expensive and perform well OR cheap and perform poorly. These pads are different: they perform well at a reasonable price. These brake pads are for brakes which fit Shimano Road and Gravel brake pads. The equivalent Shimano pad models are K03S, K05S, K03Ti,  K05Ti, K04S, K04Ti, L03A, L05A, L04C. A list of brake models these pads are compatible with can be found in the compatibility tab above.  We spent months testing a bunch of different brake pads under fifteen accomplished riders to find brake pads which perform well at a great price. Our favourite pads were Frictive pads, a new local brand. Our test riders found the performance of these pads comparable to the big name brands you know and love. We are stoked to finally see a NZ brand offering good pads and trying to address the generally overpriced market for braking products, it’s something we can fully get on-board with. Performance Guarantee: Put simply, these pads perform well. We will refund you if you disagree. Easy as. Just let us know if you’re unsatisfied and we’ll sort the rest. Further details about the Performance Guarantee can be found here.Notes: Descriptions of the performance differences between pad compound, brake model comparability and answers to some frequently asked questions can be found on the tabs above We recommend that you try both pad compounds to get a feel for the differences so you can make an informed choice about your preferred compound. Even at downhill World Cups, different riders use different compounds as it's a personal preference. We’re excited to be able to offer these pads at prices that make personal pad testing possible for more riders! FAQ Do I need Fins?Probably not. Finned pads decrease the chance of fade in really heavy braking situations. Brake fade is the reduction in stopping power that occurs when brakes are very hot. Finned pads increase the convective surface area (the area exposed to air flow) of your braking system. An increased convective surface area increases the rate of heat dissipation, which in turn decreases the temperature that your brakes run at for a given amount of braking. A lower temperature for a given amount of braking means that fins decrease brake fade. Additionally, lower operating temperatures reduce the wear rate of the pads. That is to say that fins can improve hot braking performance and decrease pad wear. But unless you experience brake fade, fins will not improve your braking performance noticeably. Most riders will never experience brake fade and thus will not benefit from finned pads. The slightly decreased wear rate of finned pads does not justify the large cost difference. Even the most experienced riders in our test group felt no need to “upgrade” to finned pads. What compound should I run on an e-bike?E-bikes are like normal bikes except they are roughly 10kg heavier. In terms of braking requirements, there is no difference between riding an e-bike and riding a normal bike after eating 10kg of pies. Contrary to what marketing may tell you, e-bikes don't require any special brake pad materials or rotor type. We suggest you try Resin pads and Metallic pads to get a feel for the differences and then make a decision based on your own experiences. Refer to the “Compound Differences” tab for more information. Compatibility Shimano: - Dura Ace BR-R9170, BR-R9270- Ultegra BR-R8070, BR-R8170, BR-R9170- 105 BR-R7070- Tiagra BR-4770- GRX BR-RX810 / RX400- Metrea BR-U5000, BR-RS805, BR-RS505, BR- RS405, BR-RS305- XTR M9100, M9110Tektro / TRP: HD-R310 Compound Differences PowerResin tend to have slightly more bite when cold than Metallic. Metallic perform better at higher temperatures, i.e. very long descentsModulationResin have a progressive feel whereas Metallic are more on/off. It is easier to crawl down steep things without skidding with ResinDurabilityFor a given amount of riding you would use roughly 3 pairs of Resin pads to each pair of MetallicNoiseResin are very quiet, Metallic are always a bit noisier. At high temperatures, or in the wet, Metallic sometimes screech (you know the sound)Wet ridingMetallic tend to outperform Resin in the wetFadeBrake fade is the reduction in stopping power that occurs when brakes are very hot. Resin tend to fade at lower temperature than Metallic. That said, with these Resin pads we haven't been able to get fade in any situation - including the infamous Mt Oxford descent! Rotor Wear RateResin pads cause lower wear to your rotor than Metallic padsTotal Ongoing CostsEven after accounting for the lower rotor wear rate from Resin pads, Metallic pads will cost you about half as much as Resin pads in the long term for total brake maintenance costs Maximizing Performance To maximize the braking force from new pads it is important to bed them in systematically. It is tempting to forgo this step, but this will leave performance on the table. 'Just riding' a new pair of pads results in inferior braking compared to intentionally bedding in those same pads. A good bedding in process transfers an even layer of brake pad material to the rotor. Pad material transferred to the rotor generates more friction with the pad than the rotor material does. Think about the difference between two grippy surfaces touching versus two slick surfaces. Bedding in your pads creates the best possible match between your pad and rotor surfaces. Which in turn maximizes braking force. PROCEDURE1) Clean your rotor with a non-residual cleaner like isopropyl alchohol (you can forgo this step if you don’t have any around)2) Install pads3) Install wheel4) Pedal bike up to speed and apply your brakes with a consistent pressure (gently at first is best).5) Take off brakes before you stop. Stopping fully ends up causing an uneven transfer of pad material6) Repeat steps 4-5 ten to twenty timesIt always surprises us how different the brakes feel after we’ve gone through this process. We do this on a downhill road (ideally at the top of a chairlift ;) ). Stops us having to pedal up to speed a bunch of times, which can make for a serious puff-fest!

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You're looking at a mighty tubeless valve. It seals well to the rim and, since it's a presta valve, it has a removable core so that you can clean it when its inevitably become blocked by overambitious tyre sealant. At 46mm long it fits even reasonably deep carbon mtb rims. Not only a decent valve, it can be used with tyre inserts because of it's t-shaped air passages. It also has a hex slot at the base also allows you to hold the valve still, just in case you ever need to (valves can get rather slippery). We're not quite sure why other valves, like Cushcore ones, retail for $50 plus per pair - it seems a bit steep.  Note: This is one valve, if you want to purchase a pair you will need to purchase two... Math 🤓

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Replacing tyre tubes is beginning to cost a lot of money... Puncture repair kits solve that problem if they do a good job of the repair, but unfortunately some of them don't. Rema Tip Top kits are the best puncture repair kits available, check any review - they all say the same thing. The Rema Tip Top TT02 Puncture Repair Kit comes with the following: Rubber backed emery paper to rough the surface of your tube (which increases the bond strength) Vulcanising cement (for gluing) 6 medium sized patches with feathered edges which reduces the edge rolling up during usage 1 large patch, in case you've got a long hole/tear or multiple holes We're particularly excited about these kits. Whilst they cost a bit more than some other repair kits we think that's a small price to pay for a job well done. There's nothing worse than patching a tube and the patch blowing up just down the road!

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