Behind brake pads, tyres are among the most frequently replaced parts of your bike. But with the price of many of decent tyres hitting $130+, it’s getting quite painful replacing them. This seems to be a bit of a talking point on the trail, is a decently priced tyre with reasonable performance too much to ask? Well, we've been stoked to discover that there is finally a brand that's trying to address this: American Classic. The American Classic Basanite MTB tyre is a 2.4" wide tubeless tyre which performs best on the rear wheel. It has a tread pattern that is reminiscent of a Maxxis minion dhr 2 tyre, and the enduro casing is most similar to a Maxxis double down casing. The Basanite has the following features: Chunky (stable) cornering lugs that provide great cornering bite An alternating center lug pattern which provides good traction during braking and pedalling  Ramped central knobs which improve rolling speed. On the other side they're vertical which means good braking A medium tread spacing gives decent traction in all conditions. We've been impressed with how well it clears mud. A sturdy 120TPI casing for puncture protection American classic suggests running the Tectonite up front and the Basanite in the rear and we tend to agree. This is a combo that performs well on hard pack and well enough when it's loose. The vulcanite might be a better tyre for you if you're consistently riding loose conditions or want a mud tyre, particularly for race days. Give it a go and let us know what you think 😊 Notes We only sell the enduro casing version of this tyre. Whilst the trail casing is lighter it's undoubtedly more susceptible to punctures. Let us know if you'd to order a trail casing version and we're happy to order it in for you. As with all tubeless tyres, these can sometimes be a challenge to get on. We recommend spraying the tyre and rim with some soapy water for lubrication. When things get tight, work your way around the tire, pushing it into the central race to gain those extra millimeters needed to get the tire onto the rim. Installation approach is particularly important if you are installing the tyre with inserts. Also, please install in a warm environment, having cold hands when doing this task simply sucks. Comparison of American Classic tyre models:​  

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Brake pads are the most regularly replaced part of a mountain bike. Sadly, pads tend to be expensive and perform well OR cheap and perform poorly. These pads are different: they perform well at a reasonable price. These brake pads are for brakes which fit Shimano BR-M775 brake pads. The equivalent Shimano pad models are A01S and M06. A list of brake models these pads are compatible with can be found on the tab above.  We spent months testing a bunch of different brake pads under fifteen accomplished riders to find brake pads which perform well at a great price. Our favourite pads were Frictive pads, a new local brand. Our test riders found the performance of these pads comparable to the big name brands you know and love. We are stoked to finally see a NZ brand offering good pads and trying to address the generally overpriced market for braking products, it’s something we can fully get on-board with. Performance Guarantee: Put simply, these pads perform well. We will refund you if you disagree. Easy as. Just let us know if you’re unsatisfied and we’ll sort the rest. Further details about the Performance Guarantee can be found here.Notes: Descriptions of the performance differences between pad compounds and answers to some frequently asked questions can be found on the tabs above We recommend that you try both pad compounds to get a feel for the differences so you can make an informed choice about your preferred compound. Even at downhill World Cups, different riders use different compounds as it's a personal preference. We’re excited to be able to offer these pads at prices that make personal pad testing possible for more riders! FAQ Do I need Fins?Probably not. Finned pads decrease the chance of fade in really heavy braking situations. Brake fade is the reduction in stopping power that occurs when brakes are very hot. Finned pads increase the convective surface area (the area exposed to air flow) of your braking system. An increased convective surface area increases the rate of heat dissipation, which in turn decreases the temperature that your brakes run at for a given amount of braking. A lower temperature for a given amount of braking means that fins decrease brake fade. Additionally, lower operating temperatures reduce the wear rate of the pads. That is to say that fins can improve hot braking performance and decrease pad wear. But unless you experience brake fade, fins will not improve your braking performance noticeably. Most riders will never experience brake fade and thus will not benefit from finned pads. The slightly decreased wear rate of finned pads does not justify the large cost difference. Even the most experienced riders in our test group felt no need to “upgrade” to finned pads. What compound should I run on an e-bike?E-bikes are like normal bikes except they are roughly 10kg heavier. In terms of braking requirements, there is no difference between riding an e-bike and riding a normal bike after eating 10kg of pies. Contrary to what marketing may tell you, e-bikes don't require any special brake pad materials or rotor type. We suggest you try Resin pads and Metallic pads to get a feel for the differences and then make a decision based on your own experiences. Refer to the “Compound Differences” tab for more information. FAQ Shimano: - XTR BR-M975/966/965 - XT BR-M776/775/765 - SLX BR-M665, - LX BR-M585/665/605 - DEORE BR-M596/595/535 - ALFINE BR-S501/500- SAINT BR-M800- HONE BR-M601, BR-M545, BR-R505Tektro / TRP: Dash, Dash Carbon Compound Differences PowerResin tend to have slightly more bite when cold than Metallic. Metallic perform better at higher temperatures, i.e. very long descentsModulationResin have a progressive feel whereas Metallic are more on/off. It is easier to crawl down steep things without skidding with ResinDurabilityFor a given amount of riding you would use roughly 3 pairs of Resin pads to each pair of MetallicNoiseResin are very quiet, Metallic are always a bit noisier. At high temperatures, or in the wet, Metallic sometimes screech (you know the sound)Wet ridingMetallic tend to outperform Resin in the wetFadeBrake fade is the reduction in stopping power that occurs when brakes are very hot. Resin tend to fade at lower temperature than Metallic. That said, with these Resin pads we haven't been able to get fade in any situation - including the infamous Mt Oxford descent! Rotor Wear RateResin pads cause lower wear to your rotor than Metallic padsTotal Ongoing CostsEven after accounting for the lower rotor wear rate from Resin pads, Metallic pads will cost you about half as much as Resin pads in the long term for total brake maintenance costs Maximizing Performance To maximize the braking force from new pads it is important to bed them in systematically. It is tempting to forgo this step, but this will leave performance on the table. 'Just riding' a new pair of pads results in inferior braking compared to intentionally bedding in those same pads. A good bedding in process transfers an even layer of brake pad material to the rotor. Pad material transferred to the rotor generates more friction with the pad than the rotor material does. Think about the difference between two grippy surfaces touching versus two slick surfaces. Bedding in your pads creates the best possible match between your pad and rotor surfaces. Which in turn maximizes braking force. PROCEDURE1) Clean your rotor with a non-residual cleaner like isopropyl alchohol (you can forgo this step if you don’t have any around)2) Install pads3) Install wheel4) Pedal bike up to speed and apply your brakes with a consistent pressure (gently at first is best).5) Take off brakes before you stop. Stopping fully ends up causing an uneven transfer of pad material6) Repeat steps 4-5 ten to twenty timesIt always surprises us how different the brakes feel after we’ve gone through this process. We do this on a downhill road (ideally at the top of a chairlift ;) ). Stops us having to pedal up to speed a bunch of times, which can make for a serious puff-fest!

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WPL suspension oil is made from natural ingredients (biodegradeable), it's non-toxic and thermally stable - what's more to want? The oil comes in viscosity grades from 2.5wt through to 20wt. These suspension oils can be used as replacements for similar viscosity fluids. Some examples of fluids that these replace are: WPL 2.5wt replaces: Fox R3 5wtWPL 5wt replaces: Fox 5wt teflon inflused, Rockshox 5wt WPL 7wt replaces: Fox green 7wt, Rockshox 7wtWPL 10wt replaces: Fox green 10wt, Fox red 10wt, Rockshox 10wt, Rockshox 0W30WPL 20wt replaces: Fox gold 20wt, Rockshox 10wt, Rockshox 0W30

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Brake pads are the most regularly replaced part of a mountain bike. Sadly, pads tend to be expensive and perform well OR cheap and perform poorly. These pads are different: they perform well at a reasonable price. These brake pads are for brakes which fit SRAM SMALL ASYMMETRIC pads. This includes moat SRAM Road brake models. A list of brake models these pads are compatible with can be found in the compatibility tab above. We spent months testing a bunch of different brake pads under fifteen accomplished riders to find brake pads which perform well at a great price. Our favourite pads were Frictive pads, a new local brand. Our test riders found the performance of these pads comparable to the big name brands you know and love. We are stoked to finally see a NZ brand offering good pads and trying to address the generally overpriced market for braking products, it’s something we can fully get on-board with. Performance Guarantee: Put simply, these pads perform well. We will refund you if you disagree. Easy as. Just let us know if you’re unsatisfied and we’ll sort the rest. Further details about the Performance Guarantee can be found here.Notes: Descriptions of the performance differences between pad compounds and answers to some frequently asked questions can be found on the tabs above We recommend that you try both pad compounds to get a feel for the differences so you can make an informed choice about your preferred compound. Even at downhill World Cups, different riders use different compounds as it's a personal preference. We’re excited to be able to offer these pads at prices that make personal pad testing possible for more riders! FAQ Do I need Fins?Probably not. Finned pads decrease the chance of fade in really heavy braking situations. Brake fade is the reduction in stopping power that occurs when brakes are very hot. Finned pads increase the convective surface area (the area exposed to air flow) of your braking system. An increased convective surface area increases the rate of heat dissipation, which in turn decreases the temperature that your brakes run at for a given amount of braking. A lower temperature for a given amount of braking means that fins decrease brake fade. Additionally, lower operating temperatures reduce the wear rate of the pads. That is to say that fins can improve hot braking performance and decrease pad wear. But unless you experience brake fade, fins will not improve your braking performance noticeably. Most riders will never experience brake fade and thus will not benefit from finned pads. The slightly decreased wear rate of finned pads does not justify the large cost difference. Even the most experienced riders in our test group felt no need to “upgrade” to finned pads. What compound should I run on an e-bike?E-bikes are like normal bikes except they are roughly 10kg heavier. In terms of braking requirements, there is no difference between riding an e-bike and riding a normal bike after eating 10kg of pies. Contrary to what marketing may tell you, e-bikes don't require any special brake pad materials or rotor type. We suggest you try Resin pads and Metallic pads to get a feel for the differences and then make a decision based on your own experiences. Refer to the “Compound Differences” tab for more information. Compatibility SRAM- Apex 1- Rival 1- Rival 22- Force 1- Force 22- Red 22- S700- Level Ultimate- Level TLM (up to model year 2019). 2020 onward use SRAM Level Shape Compound Differences PowerResin tend to have slightly more bite when cold than Metallic. Metallic perform better at higher temperatures, i.e. very long descentsModulationResin have a progressive feel whereas Metallic are more on/off. It is easier to crawl down steep things without skidding with ResinDurabilityFor a given amount of riding you would use roughly 3 pairs of Resin pads to each pair of MetallicNoiseResin are very quiet, Metallic are always a bit noisier. At high temperatures, or in the wet, Metallic sometimes screech (you know the sound)Wet ridingMetallic tend to outperform Resin in the wetFadeBrake fade is the reduction in stopping power that occurs when brakes are very hot. Resin tend to fade at lower temperature than Metallic. That said, with these Resin pads we haven't been able to get fade in any situation - including the infamous Mt Oxford descent! Rotor Wear RateResin pads cause lower wear to your rotor than Metallic padsTotal Ongoing CostsEven after accounting for the lower rotor wear rate from Resin pads, Metallic pads will cost you about half as much as Resin pads in the long term for total brake maintenance costs Maximizing Performance To maximize the braking force from new pads it is important to bed them in systematically. It is tempting to forgo this step, but this will leave performance on the table. 'Just riding' a new pair of pads results in inferior braking compared to intentionally bedding in those same pads. A good bedding in process transfers an even layer of brake pad material to the rotor. Pad material transferred to the rotor generates more friction with the pad than the rotor material does. Think about the difference between two grippy surfaces touching versus two slick surfaces. Bedding in your pads creates the best possible match between your pad and rotor surfaces. Which in turn maximizes braking force. PROCEDURE1) Clean your rotor with a non-residual cleaner like isopropyl alchohol (you can forgo this step if you don’t have any around)2) Install pads3) Install wheel4) Pedal bike up to speed and apply your brakes with a consistent pressure (gently at first is best).5) Take off brakes before you stop. Stopping fully ends up causing an uneven transfer of pad material6) Repeat steps 4-5 ten to twenty timesIt always surprises us how different the brakes feel after we’ve gone through this process. We do this on a downhill road (ideally at the top of a chairlift ;) ). Stops us having to pedal up to speed a bunch of times, which can make for a serious puff-fest!

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Sick of cable rattle inside your frame? Here's some tubing which fits over your internal cables and will stop them from rattling inside your frame. This tubing is 1m long, has an internal diameter of 5mm and an outer diameter of 10mm. If you order more than one unit, we will provide a length equal to the number of units. E.g. 2x units is 2m. This will allow you to get better use of the available tubing :)  Things to Note: A lot of bikes will require more than 1m so have a measure up first to decide how much you need before buying This tubing fits 4mm & 5mm cable well (almost all cables) It's worth looking at your cable entrances to assess suitability - some frames have extremely narrow cable entrances that you can't squish this through

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This product listing is designed to solve our historic pet peeves with brake bleed kits: 1) You can't usually get replacement parts2) The limited selection of fittings with good brake bleed kits forces you to purchase multiple bleed kits if you want to bleed different brakes. If you're using the same oil, why not use the same core parts of a kit? By selling all useful parts for Mineral Oil bleed kits you should be able to replace worn parts and adapt your kit to work with other brakes. At some point, we will list what each of these things does. For now, just reach out if you would like to source something and don't know what you are after 😊 

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DMR Deathgrips are our favorite grips because of their waffle pattern and knurling that provide excellent grip. Additionally, they feature a mushroom on the inner side for added comfort. If you have large hands or prefer a softer grip, choose the thicker version. However, if you prefer a more direct feel of your front wheel, opt for the thinner version. We offer both flanged and flangeless versions of Deathgrips; this is the flanged version. Fancy a bling pair? Pay a little extra and get custom colour collars!

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Brake pads are the most regularly replaced part of a mountain bike. Sadly, pads tend to be expensive and perform well OR cheap and perform poorly. These pads are different: they perform well at a reasonable price. These brake pads are for brakes which fit Avid Juicy pads. A list of brake models these pads are compatible with can be found on the tab above. We spent months testing a bunch of different brake pads under fifteen accomplished riders to find brake pads which perform well at a great price. Our favourite pads were Frictive pads, a new local brand. Our test riders found the performance of these pads comparable to the big name brands you know and love. We are stoked to finally see a NZ brand offering good pads and trying to address the generally overpriced market for braking products, it’s something we can fully get on-board with. Performance Guarantee: Put simply, these pads perform well. We will refund you if you disagree. Easy as. Just let us know if you’re unsatisfied and we’ll sort the rest. Further details about the Performance Guarantee can be found here.Notes: Descriptions of the performance differences between pad compounds and answers to some frequently asked questions can be found on the tabs above We recommend that you try both pad compounds to get a feel for the differences so you can make an informed choice about your preferred compound. Even at downhill World Cups, different riders use different compounds as it's a personal preference. We’re excited to be able to offer these pads at prices that make personal pad testing possible for more riders! FAQ Do I need Fins?Probably not. Finned pads decrease the chance of fade in really heavy braking situations. Brake fade is the reduction in stopping power that occurs when brakes are very hot. Finned pads increase the convective surface area (the area exposed to air flow) of your braking system. An increased convective surface area increases the rate of heat dissipation, which in turn decreases the temperature that your brakes run at for a given amount of braking. A lower temperature for a given amount of braking means that fins decrease brake fade. Additionally, lower operating temperatures reduce the wear rate of the pads. That is to say that fins can improve hot braking performance and decrease pad wear. But unless you experience brake fade, fins will not improve your braking performance noticeably. Most riders will never experience brake fade and thus will not benefit from finned pads. The slightly decreased wear rate of finned pads does not justify the large cost difference. Even the most experienced riders in our test group felt no need to “upgrade” to finned pads. What compound should I run on an e-bike?E-bikes are like normal bikes except they are roughly 10kg heavier. In terms of braking requirements, there is no difference between riding an e-bike and riding a normal bike after eating 10kg of pies. Contrary to what marketing may tell you, e-bikes don't require any special brake pad materials or rotor type. We suggest you try Resin pads and Metallic pads to get a feel for the differences and then make a decision based on your own experiences. Refer to the “Compound Differences” tab for more information. Compatibility Avid- Juicy 3, 5, 7, Ultimate, Carbon- BB7 Compound Differences PowerResin tend to have slightly more bite when cold than Metallic. Metallic perform better at higher temperatures, i.e. very long descentsModulationResin have a progressive feel whereas Metallic are more on/off. It is easier to crawl down steep things without skidding with ResinDurabilityFor a given amount of riding you would use roughly 3 pairs of Resin pads to each pair of MetallicNoiseResin are very quiet, Metallic are always a bit noisier. At high temperatures, or in the wet, Metallic sometimes screech (you know the sound)Wet ridingMetallic tend to outperform Resin in the wetFadeBrake fade is the reduction in stopping power that occurs when brakes are very hot. Resin tend to fade at lower temperature than Metallic. That said, with these Resin pads we haven't been able to get fade in any situation - including the infamous Mt Oxford descent! Rotor Wear RateResin pads cause lower wear to your rotor than Metallic padsTotal Ongoing CostsEven after accounting for the lower rotor wear rate from Resin pads, Metallic pads will cost you about half as much as Resin pads in the long term for total brake maintenance costs Maximizing Performance To maximize the braking force from new pads it is important to bed them in systematically. It is tempting to forgo this step, but this will leave performance on the table. 'Just riding' a new pair of pads results in inferior braking compared to intentionally bedding in those same pads. A good bedding in process transfers an even layer of brake pad material to the rotor. Pad material transferred to the rotor generates more friction with the pad than the rotor material does. Think about the difference between two grippy surfaces touching versus two slick surfaces. Bedding in your pads creates the best possible match between your pad and rotor surfaces. Which in turn maximizes braking force. PROCEDURE1) Clean your rotor with a non-residual cleaner like isopropyl alchohol (you can forgo this step if you don’t have any around)2) Install pads3) Install wheel4) Pedal bike up to speed and apply your brakes with a consistent pressure (gently at first is best).5) Take off brakes before you stop. Stopping fully ends up causing an uneven transfer of pad material6) Repeat steps 4-5 ten to twenty timesIt always surprises us how different the brakes feel after we’ve gone through this process. We do this on a downhill road (ideally at the top of a chairlift ;) ). Stops us having to pedal up to speed a bunch of times, which can make for a serious puff-fest!

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Tubeless inserts reduce wheel damage and improve the feel of your bike. For a long time Cushcore ruled the insert market and none of the cheaper options had decent performance, but Rimpact has changed that. Rimpact are simply a well-performing product at a better price-point than the alternatives. This listing is for a set (two) of inserts with valves. Please consult the rim width diagram at the end of this listing to determine whether this particular product is appropriate for your bike. Rimpact Tubeless Inserts help in the following ways: They minimise the impact force on your rim. We’ve had far less rim dings since riding them. They help stabilise your tyre sidewall. The level of stabilisation will depend on the combination of rim and tyre that you are running. They reduce trail chatter. The extent to which they do this surprised us but it was very welcome 😊 They reduce the chances of damaging your tyre. In late 2022 Rimpact released an update to their inserts (hence V2) which changed the shape slightly to better fit modern rims. They also released some new insert models. We carry all Rimpact models and sell combinations of them so you can mix and match to get your ideal setup. If you're curious about other Rimpact models you can see all of our listings here. Original, and gravel/xc, inserts are made of a single type of foam and provide great performance at a great price point. We ran Original inserts very happily for 6 months at the Christchurch Adventure Park and were very happy with their performance. Pro, and cx, inserts are made from a dual-density foam which provides even more rim protection, tyre stability and tyre damage prevention than the original inserts. EDH inserts also have a dual compound like the PRO model but the outer layer is even more supportive and protective. This is the highest protection model and is best suited for serious downhill riders and for heavy e-bikes. Note that installing the EDH in a 2.4” tyre is quite a strength and patience requiring process. If you’d like to purchase a different model of Rimpact inserts / a combination of them check out our range here. Our experience using RimpactAfter a number of years on Rimpact on our gravity bikes we’ve found our favourite front insert to be the Original model because it has the best vibration damping characteristics and lowest weight. On the rear we prefer the heaviest duty model we can afford/be bothered installing, whether that be a Pro or EDH model. We’ve not tried the XC/Gravel model but have been running the CX model for years. We’ve been impressed by how much smoother it makes our gravel bikes ride and blown away by how much traction we can get at cyclocross races when we drop the tyre pressures to 25psi (and don’t have any issues!). Model Information  Model Size Weight per insert (grams) CX 700C 55 Gravel / XC 29" / 700C  70 27.5" 60 Original V2 29"  110 27.5" 100 Pro 29"  160 27.5" 150 EDH 29" 180 27.5" 170 ​  Notes A note about sealant: Tyre inserts will significantly increase the surface area inside your tyre so we suggest using 30% or so extra sealant than you would usually.If you've got this far, we may also have some clearance stock of old V1 rimpact models. It would be worth having a look as they will be at a discount.  

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