DMR V6 mountain bike pedals are a Nylon evolution of our newest V12 body design. It has the same concave footprint and narrow profile that DMR pedals are known for, whilst spinning on our new Dual DU bush system. Specifications:Cromo axleNylon BodyDual DU bush system327g per pairFull length off road pinsNon-serviceable designTorque setting: 40 - 55Nm

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A basic fact of riding is that wheel spokes slowly become loose. They also tend to become loose unevenly so certain areas of the wheel become weaker than others. But, you can do a decent job of wheel maintenance, even without a truing stand. It's amazing how often we find floppy spokes in our wheels so it's always worth having a spoke wrench fairly close by. This Premium Spoke Wrench will work on one nipple size. It is designed to engage with three sides of the spoke nipple, so will work well even for alloy spoke nipples. The handle is designed to make rotation easy. This tool is ideal if you are keen on truing or building your own wheels. If you are looking for a spoke wrench to have in your pack, or glovebox, it may also be worth considering a smaller multi-sized tool. We sell tools like this here. Whilst they only engage with two sides of the nipple, they are a little more convenient to transport around. It would still be worth having one of these if you are doing regular building or truing.

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Need some Torx wrenches? This nine piece set of Torx wrenches covers all your bases from T10 to T50. The set contains wrenches of the following sizes: T10, T15, T20 T25, T27, T30 T40, T45, T50

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Behind brake pads, tyres are among the most frequently replaced parts of your bike. But with the price of many of decent tyres hitting $130+, it’s getting quite painful replacing them. This seems to be a bit of a talking point on the trail, is a decently priced tyre with reasonable performance too much to ask? Well, we've been stoked to discover that there is finally a brand that's trying to address this: American Classic. The American Classic Tectonite MTB tyre is a 2.5" wide tubeless tyre which performs best on the front wheel. It has a tread pattern that is reminiscent of a Maxxis Assegai and the enduro casing is most similar to a Maxxis double down casing.  The Tectonite has the following features: Chunky (stable) cornering lugs that provide great cornering bite An alternating center lug pattern which provides good traction during braking and pedalling.  Ramped central knobs which improve rolling speed. On the other side they're vertical which means good braking A medium tread spacing that gives decent traction in all conditions. Compared to the Basanite the tread is more closely spaced but it's actually been a fantastic tyre in the mud The tread pattern covers all angles of lean well which reduces chances of washing your front wheel on dust over hardpack A sturdy 120TPI casing for puncture protection American classic suggests running the Tectonite up front and the Basanite in the rear and we tend to agree. This is a combo that performs well on hard pack and well enough when it's loose. The vulcanite might be a better tyre for you if you're consistently riding loose conditions or want a mud tyre, particularly for race days. Give it a go and let us know what you think 😊 Notes We only sell the enduro casing version of this tyre. Whilst the trail casing is lighter it's undoubtedly more susceptible to punctures. Let us know if you'd to order a trail casing version and we're happy to order it in for you. As with all tubeless tyres, these can sometimes be a challenge to get on. We recommend spraying the tyre and rim with some soapy water for lubrication. When things get tight, work your way around the tire, pushing it into the central race to gain those extra millimeters needed to get the tire onto the rim. Installation approach is particularly important if you are installing the tyre with inserts. Also, please install in a warm environment, having cold hands when doing this task simply sucks. Comparison of American Classic tyre models:​  

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Not only does Squirt Bike Cleaner work, but it's biodegradable and a solid cost-saver. Each sachet of cleaner is diluted in water to make a full bottle, and the bottle comes with 3 sachets - over double the cleaner for the same price as other brands. When you need more, just buy individual sachets - it's a bunch cheaper than the alternative 😊

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Do you have a centerlock lock hub but want to use a 6 bolt rotor? This adapter will do the trick for you!  We tested a bunch of adapter options and were surprised by how bad many of them were. We decided on this model because: We like the security of attaching our rotor with bolts The bolts also allow you to run any rotor thickness (well, within reason 😅) It tightens well with clear mechanical feedback provided to the installer We could hit the price point desired Types (now only one...) BB (Bottom Bracket) tool: Uses a standard bottom bracket tool (ones that work with Shimano hollowtech II) to install. Works for all axles. We prefer this model but admit that many of us only have cassette tools handy. There is no limit on the size of the rotor you can install with these adapters. Tools for installation:Cassette tools: this, that, or thee.  

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Brake pads are the most regularly replaced part of a mountain bike. Sadly, pads tend to be expensive and perform well OR cheap and perform poorly. These pads are different: they perform well at a reasonable price. These brake pads are for Hayes Dominion A4 brakes.  We spent months testing a bunch of different brake pads under fifteen accomplished riders to find brake pads which perform well at a great price. Our favourite pads were Frictive pads and these were a close second. Where Frictive doesn’t offer a pad shape we’ve decided to offer these - just to provide a wider range for older and less common brake models. Our test riders found the performance of these pads comparable to the big name brands you know and love. We named these pads GPVN which stands for "Great Price, Very Nice" - a name which really amuses us. Performance Guarantee: Put simply, these pads perform well. We will refund you if you disagree. Easy as. Just let us know if you’re unsatisfied and we’ll sort the rest. Further details about the Performance Guarantee can be found here.Notes: Descriptions of the performance differences between pad compounds and answers to some frequently asked questions can be found on the tabs above We recommend that you try both pad compounds to get a feel for the differences so you can make an informed choice about your preferred compound. Even at downhill World Cups, different riders use different compounds as it's a personal preference. We’re excited to be able to offer these pads at prices that make personal pad testing possible for more riders! FAQ Do I need Fins?Probably not. Finned pads decrease the chance of fade in really heavy braking situations. Brake fade is the reduction in stopping power that occurs when brakes are very hot. Finned pads increase the convective surface area (the area exposed to air flow) of your braking system. An increased convective surface area increases the rate of heat dissipation, which in turn decreases the temperature that your brakes run at for a given amount of braking. A lower temperature for a given amount of braking means that fins decrease brake fade. Additionally, lower operating temperatures reduce the wear rate of the pads. That is to say that fins can improve hot braking performance and decrease pad wear. But unless you experience brake fade, fins will not improve your braking performance noticeably. Most riders will never experience brake fade and thus will not benefit from finned pads. The slightly decreased wear rate of finned pads does not justify the large cost difference. Even the most experienced riders in our test group felt no need to “upgrade” to finned pads. What compound should I run on an e-bike?E-bikes are like normal bikes except they are roughly 10kg heavier. In terms of braking requirements, there is no difference between riding an e-bike and riding a normal bike after eating 10kg of pies. Contrary to what marketing may tell you, e-bikes don't require any special brake pad materials or rotor type. We suggest you try Resin pads and Metallic pads to get a feel for the differences and then make a decision based on your own experiences. Refer to the “Compound Differences” tab for more information. Compound Differences PowerResin tend to have slightly more bite when cold than Metallic. Metallic perform better at higher temperatures, i.e. very long descentsModulationResin have a progressive feel whereas Metallic are more on/off. It is easier to crawl down steep things without skidding with ResinDurabilityFor a given amount of riding you would use roughly 3 pairs of Resin pads to each pair of MetallicNoiseResin are very quiet, Metallic are always a bit noisier. At high temperatures, or in the wet, Metallic sometimes screech (you know the sound)Wet ridingMetallic tend to outperform Resin in the wetFadeBrake fade is the reduction in stopping power that occurs when brakes are very hot. Resin tend to fade at lower temperature than Metallic. That said, with these Resin pads we haven't been able to get fade in any situation - including the infamous Mt Oxford descent! Rotor Wear RateResin pads cause lower wear to your rotor than Metallic padsTotal Ongoing CostsEven after accounting for the lower rotor wear rate from Resin pads, Metallic pads will cost you about half as much as Resin pads in the long term for total brake maintenance costs Maximizing Performance To maximize the braking force from new pads it is important to bed them in systematically. It is tempting to forgo this step, but this will leave performance on the table. 'Just riding' a new pair of pads results in inferior braking compared to intentionally bedding in those same pads. A good bedding in process transfers an even layer of brake pad material to the rotor. Pad material transferred to the rotor generates more friction with the pad than the rotor material does. Think about the difference between two grippy surfaces touching versus two slick surfaces. Bedding in your pads creates the best possible match between your pad and rotor surfaces. Which in turn maximizes braking force. PROCEDURE1) Clean your rotor with a non-residual cleaner like isopropyl alchohol (you can forgo this step if you don’t have any around)2) Install pads3) Install wheel4) Pedal bike up to speed and apply your brakes with a consistent pressure (gently at first is best).5) Take off brakes before you stop. Stopping fully ends up causing an uneven transfer of pad material6) Repeat steps 4-5 ten to twenty timesIt always surprises us how different the brakes feel after we’ve gone through this process. We do this on a downhill road (ideally at the top of a chairlift ;) ). Stops us having to pedal up to speed a bunch of times, which can make for a serious puff-fest!

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CO2 inflators are bloody handy for when you need to inflate quickly, or don't want to carry a bigger hand pump around. Both options fit on Schrader and Presta valves and they also come with a neoprene sleeve which insulates your hand from the cold during usage. Both models have the ability to screw onto your CO2 cartridge without discharging it, useful for putting on your bike or in your bag. The major difference between the two is that the Black model connects to your valve at right angles with your CO2 cartridge. The gold model sits straight in a line with it. The other difference is that the gold one looks quite bling!  Both models of CO2 inflator can adjust the flow rate. Once you pump up one tyre, the cartridge will eventually lose all it's pressure.  Note: these comes without CO2 cartridges, we haven't figured out how to send them cheaply yet. CO2 cartridges are pretty easily obtained from your local bike shop :) Video of using the product

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Tubeless inserts reduce wheel damage and improve the feel of your bike. For a long time Cushcore ruled the insert market and none of the cheaper options had decent performance, but Rimpact has changed that. Rimpact are simply a well-performing product at a better price-point than the alternatives. This listing is for a set (two) of inserts with valves. Please consult the rim width diagram at the end of this listing to determine whether this particular product is appropriate for your bike. Rimpact Tubeless Inserts help in the following ways: They minimise the impact force on your rim. We’ve had far less rim dings since riding them. They help stabilise your tyre sidewall. The level of stabilisation will depend on the combination of rim and tyre that you are running. They reduce trail chatter. The extent to which they do this surprised us but it was very welcome 😊 They reduce the chances of damaging your tyre. In late 2022 Rimpact released an update to their inserts (hence V2) which changed the shape slightly to better fit modern rims. They also released some new insert models. We carry all Rimpact models and sell combinations of them so you can mix and match to get your ideal setup. If you're curious about other Rimpact models you can see all of our listings here. Original, and gravel/xc, inserts are made of a single type of foam and provide great performance at a great price point. We ran Original inserts very happily for 6 months at the Christchurch Adventure Park and were very happy with their performance. Pro, and cx, inserts are made from a dual-density foam which provides even more rim protection, tyre stability and tyre damage prevention than the original inserts. EDH inserts also have a dual compound like the PRO model but the outer layer is even more supportive and protective. This is the highest protection model and is best suited for serious downhill riders and for heavy e-bikes. Note that installing the EDH in a 2.4” tyre is quite a strength and patience requiring process. If you’d like to purchase a different model of Rimpact inserts / a combination of them check out our range here. Our experience using RimpactAfter a number of years on Rimpact on our gravity bikes we’ve found our favourite front insert to be the Original model because it has the best vibration damping characteristics and lowest weight. On the rear we prefer the heaviest duty model we can afford/be bothered installing, whether that be a Pro or EDH model. We’ve not tried the XC/Gravel model but have been running the CX model for years. We’ve been impressed by how much smoother it makes our gravel bikes ride and blown away by how much traction we can get at cyclocross races when we drop the tyre pressures to 25psi (and don’t have any issues!). Model Information  Model Size Weight per insert (grams) CX 700C 55 Gravel / XC 29" / 700C  70 27.5" 60 Original V2 29"  110 27.5" 100 Pro 29"  160 27.5" 150 EDH 29" 180 27.5" 170 ​  Notes A note about sealant: Tyre inserts will significantly increase the surface area inside your tyre so we suggest using 30% or so extra sealant than you would usually.If you've got this far, we may also have some clearance stock of old V1 rimpact models. It would be worth having a look as they will be at a discount.  

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  Tubeless inserts reduce wheel damage and improve the feel of your bike. For a long time Cushcore ruled the insert market and none of the cheaper options had decent performance, but Rimpact has changed that. Rimpact are simply a well-performing product at a better price-point than the alternatives. This listing is for a single insert and valve. Please consult the rim width diagram at the end of this listing to determine whether this particular product is appropriate for your bike. Rimpact Tubeless Inserts help in the following ways: They minimise the impact force on your rim. We’ve had far less rim dings since riding them. They help stabilise your tyre sidewall. The level of stabilisation will depend on the combination of rim and tyre that you are running. They reduce trail chatter. The extent to which they do this surprised us but it was very welcome 😊 They reduce the chances of damaging your tyre. In late 2022 Rimpact released an update to their inserts (hence V2) which changed the shape slightly to better fit modern rims. They also released some new insert models. We carry all Rimpact models and sell combinations of them so you can mix and match to get your ideal setup. If you're curious about other Rimpact models you can see all of our listings here. Original, and gravel/xc, inserts are made of a single type of foam and provide great performance at a great price point. We ran Original inserts very happily for 6 months at the Christchurch Adventure Park and were very happy with their performance. Pro, and cx, inserts are made from a dual-density foam which provides even more rim protection, tyre stability and tyre damage prevention than the original inserts. EDH inserts also have a dual compound like the PRO model but the outer layer is even more supportive and protective. This is the highest protection model and is best suited for serious downhill riders and for heavy e-bikes. Note that installing the EDH in a 2.4” tyre is quite a strength and patience requiring process. If you’d like to purchase a different model of Rimpact inserts / a combination of them check out our range here. Our experience using RimpactAfter a number of years on Rimpact on our gravity bikes we’ve found our favourite front insert to be the Original model because it has the best vibration damping characteristics and lowest weight. On the rear we prefer the heaviest duty model we can afford/be bothered installing, whether that be a Pro or EDH model. We’ve not tried the XC/Gravel model but have been running the CX model for years. We’ve been impressed by how much smoother it makes our gravel bikes ride and blown away by how much traction we can get at cyclocross races when we drop the tyre pressures to 25psi (and don’t have any issues!). Model Information  Model Size Weight per insert (grams) CX 700C 55 Gravel / XC 29" / 700C  70 27.5" 60 Original V2 29"  110 27.5" 100 Pro 29"  160 27.5" 150 EDH 29" 180 27.5" 170 ​  Notes A note about sealant: Tyre inserts will significantly increase the surface area inside your tyre so we suggest using 30% or so extra sealant than you would usually.If you've got this far, we may also have some clearance stock of old V1 rimpact models. It would be worth having a look as they will be at a discount.  

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This Premium Cassette Removal Tool is made to remove your cassette. It has a supporting centre pin, which reduces the chances of you aligning it at a funny angle on your cassette - which helps to not strip it. It also has a long handle which provides great leverage and really helps to align the tool with your cassette spline.  The total length of this tool is 35cm. This will remove Shimano HG style cassettes - so pretty much anything that is not Campy standard. Yes, that includes SRAM cassettes. This tool can also be used to remove Shimano Centerlock rotors. The differences between the Basic and Premium Basic Cassette tools are handle length, tool quality, aesthetics and price. We prefer the more comfortable handle and extra leverage of the Premium tool, but we decided to stock both so that you have the choice.

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