Sick of huffing and puffing while your tubeless tyre sits on your rim and refuses to bead up? Perhaps you’ve sworn enough that you’ve traumatised your neighbour's children and their parents are less than impressed. Either way, this handy device will sort you out by getting that pesky bead to seat properly. Simply inflate this high pressure air tank, flick the switch to send a jet of air into the tyre and sit back (🍹🌴) while your tyre bead seats casually. This tool is the perfect at-home replacement for an air compressor, infact it’s even easier to use.  From our testing of the competition, we found this device to be the best. It’s got a large air chamber volume, which will seat even large volume tyres, and its got quite the stout steel build. How to use Remove your tubeless valve core Install sealant and rotate it through the tyre. Our 250mL sealant bottles can inject it directly through the valve Inflate the tubeless inflator to 200 psi with your floor pump * Connect the inflator to the wheel valve Flip the lever and Hey Presto! - your tyre will inflate and stay inflated * You will hear the inflator losing a little pressure at 200psi. This is by design, it has a blow-off valve calibrated to take no more than 200psi pressure. This is expected and safe.  If 200psi doesn't do the trick, try vigorously pumping when the tank is releasing to increase the flow rate a bit.  Key things to note: The device is 'inflated' using a Schrader valve. Make sure your floor pump has one! The device is tested to be safe to, and likely above, 700psi. We know that pressure vessels can be scary, so please take comfort in knowing that this one has been tested properly by the manufacturer.  When the tank pressure is over 200psi a safety valve will activate to release excess pressure Our experience: We’ve used a inflator device for years and had forgotten how much of a pain inflating tubeless is without one. Its only when we forgot to bring it to help a mate inflate some tyres that we re-experienced that trauma and resolved to source a good tubeless inflator for our store. Simply put, this inflator is mint. We think it’s better than all of the alternatives, branded and unbranded, that we tested. Just make sure that your pump can connect to the schrader valve for inflation. Also note that pumps with huge heads might have challenges connecting to the pump - though none of the pumps we had handy had any issues. This device is similar to the following products: Airshot tubeless tyre inflator Topeak Tubibooster

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Angle Adjustable Housing Connectors are useful for tidying up the cockpit and reducing cable/hose rattle. They snap onto your cables easily and keep them parrallel to each other.  Once you've got your cables trimmed to roughly the right length, use a combination of these and rotatable connectors to keep the cables from smashing around too badly. There are a few different sizes, make sure you get the correct one! Sizing:4mm: most gear cables5mm: most hydraulic brake cables, some gear cables (much less common, we only sell 4mm outer diameter)  

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Looking for a mini pump that doesn't break the bank? Consider one of these bad boys. We've been running one for 6 months on our mountain bike and its performance has been fine - just what you look for in a low price pump.  These are perfect as a pump for in the pack but comes with a bottle cage mount also.  Note: Not suitable for Road bikes, we think the maximum pressure is about 60psi (we're a bit weak) Features Extractable hose, so you can inflate your tyres without bending your valve around Presta and Schrader valve compatible Maximum pressure - about 60 psi. We just couldn't get it any higher. Fine for mtb's Basic bottle cage mount sits under the bottle cage Dust cap to keep crap out of the pump Cheap and chirpy, tweet tweet!

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This tool tray fits on the Bike Repair Stand we sell here. It has a number of compartments which can hold tools and parts while servicing your bike. Slots around the outside of the tool tray can hold tools like Allen keys, screwdrivers and wrenches. A central compartment of the tray has a magnet fixed on the opposing side. This stops loose bolts from wandering while you servicing your bike. If you don't like the magnet it can be removed easily with a screwdriver. Height Adapters: The height of the tool tray isn't quite right on these stands by default so we've made an adapter so you can adjust the height of your tool tray.  We'll get some good photos at some stage...    The adapter allows you to do this...

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WPL Dry Chain Lube is a bio-based chain lube formulated for wet and muddy riding conditions. It is biodegradable, non-toxic, and is PTFE-free so it keeps you and the environment safe from harm. 

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  Tubeless inserts reduce wheel damage and improve the feel of your bike. For a long time Cushcore ruled the insert market and none of the cheaper options had decent performance, but Rimpact has changed that. Rimpact are simply a well-performing product at a better price-point than the alternatives. This listing is for a single insert and valve. Please consult the rim width diagram at the end of this listing to determine whether this particular product is appropriate for your bike. Rimpact Tubeless Inserts help in the following ways: They minimise the impact force on your rim. We’ve had far less rim dings since riding them. They help stabilise your tyre sidewall. The level of stabilisation will depend on the combination of rim and tyre that you are running. They reduce trail chatter. The extent to which they do this surprised us but it was very welcome 😊 They reduce the chances of damaging your tyre. In late 2022 Rimpact released an update to their inserts (hence V2) which changed the shape slightly to better fit modern rims. They also released some new insert models. We carry all Rimpact models and sell combinations of them so you can mix and match to get your ideal setup. If you're curious about other Rimpact models you can see all of our listings here. Original, and gravel/xc, inserts are made of a single type of foam and provide great performance at a great price point. We ran Original inserts very happily for 6 months at the Christchurch Adventure Park and were very happy with their performance. Pro, and cx, inserts are made from a dual-density foam which provides even more rim protection, tyre stability and tyre damage prevention than the original inserts. EDH inserts also have a dual compound like the PRO model but the outer layer is even more supportive and protective. This is the highest protection model and is best suited for serious downhill riders and for heavy e-bikes. Note that installing the EDH in a 2.4” tyre is quite a strength and patience requiring process. If you’d like to purchase a different model of Rimpact inserts / a combination of them check out our range here. Our experience using RimpactAfter a number of years on Rimpact on our gravity bikes we’ve found our favourite front insert to be the Original model because it has the best vibration damping characteristics and lowest weight. On the rear we prefer the heaviest duty model we can afford/be bothered installing, whether that be a Pro or EDH model. We’ve not tried the XC/Gravel model but have been running the CX model for years. We’ve been impressed by how much smoother it makes our gravel bikes ride and blown away by how much traction we can get at cyclocross races when we drop the tyre pressures to 25psi (and don’t have any issues!). Model Information  Model Size Weight per insert (grams) CX 700C 55 Gravel / XC 29" / 700C  70 27.5" 60 Original V2 29"  110 27.5" 100 Pro 29"  160 27.5" 150 EDH 29" 180 27.5" 170 ​  Notes A note about sealant: Tyre inserts will significantly increase the surface area inside your tyre so we suggest using 30% or so extra sealant than you would usually.If you've got this far, we may also have some clearance stock of old V1 rimpact models. It would be worth having a look as they will be at a discount.  

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Are you a die-hard fan of Outspoken Cycles? Perhaps you can't think of anything better to do than plaster stickers on everything you see? Whatever your reason for wanting stickers, we're happy to provide them. Here's some Outspoken Cycles stickers, just like the ones we lovingly give out with orders.  These die-cut stickers are 100 mm x 25 mm in size and are made from a thick, durable vinyl which means they survive scratches, water and sunlight rather well. Application to a clean dry surface ensures its a sticker that will last for a long long time.  If five stickers just isn't enough for you then get in touch, we will be able to sort something out! :) 

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Brake pads are the most regularly replaced part of a mountain bike. Sadly, pads tend to be expensive and perform well OR cheap and perform poorly. These pads are different: they perform well at a reasonable price. These brake pads are for brakes which fit Hope V4 pads. Trickstuff Maxima brakes also use these pads.   We spent months testing a bunch of different brake pads under fifteen accomplished riders to find brake pads which perform well at a great price. Our favourite pads were Frictive pads and these were a close second. Where Frictive doesn’t offer a pad shape we’ve decided to offer these - just to provide a wider range for older and less common brake models. Our test riders found the performance of these pads comparable to the big name brands you know and love. We named these pads GPVN which stands for "Great Price, Very Nice" - a name which really amuses us. Please note that we were unable to source a metallic version of this pad. Instead we have a "metal-like" pad which has similar performance characteristics to metallic pads.  Performance Guarantee: Put simply, these pads perform well. We will refund you if you disagree. Easy as. Just let us know if you’re unsatisfied and we’ll sort the rest. Further details about the Performance Guarantee can be found here.Notes: Descriptions of the performance differences between pad compounds and answers to some frequently asked questions can be found on the tabs above We recommend that you try both pad compounds to get a feel for the differences so you can make an informed choice about your preferred compound. Even at downhill World Cups, different riders use different compounds as it's a personal preference. We’re excited to be able to offer these pads at prices that make personal pad testing possible for more riders! FAQ Do I need Fins?Probably not. Finned pads decrease the chance of fade in really heavy braking situations. Brake fade is the reduction in stopping power that occurs when brakes are very hot. Finned pads increase the convective surface area (the area exposed to air flow) of your braking system. An increased convective surface area increases the rate of heat dissipation, which in turn decreases the temperature that your brakes run at for a given amount of braking. A lower temperature for a given amount of braking means that fins decrease brake fade. Additionally, lower operating temperatures reduce the wear rate of the pads. That is to say that fins can improve hot braking performance and decrease pad wear. But unless you experience brake fade, fins will not improve your braking performance noticeably. Most riders will never experience brake fade and thus will not benefit from finned pads. The slightly decreased wear rate of finned pads does not justify the large cost difference. Even the most experienced riders in our test group felt no need to “upgrade” to finned pads. What compound should I run on an e-bike?E-bikes are like normal bikes except they are roughly 10kg heavier. In terms of braking requirements, there is no difference between riding an e-bike and riding a normal bike after eating 10kg of pies. Contrary to what marketing may tell you, e-bikes don't require any special brake pad materials or rotor type. We suggest you try Resin pads and Metallic pads to get a feel for the differences and then make a decision based on your own experiences. Refer to the “Compound Differences” tab for more information. Compound Differences PowerResin tend to have slightly more bite when cold than Metallic. Metallic perform better at higher temperatures, i.e. very long descentsModulationResin have a progressive feel whereas Metallic are more on/off. It is easier to crawl down steep things without skidding with ResinDurabilityFor a given amount of riding you would use roughly 3 pairs of Resin pads to each pair of MetallicNoiseResin are very quiet, Metallic are always a bit noisier. At high temperatures, or in the wet, Metallic sometimes screech (you know the sound)Wet ridingMetallic tend to outperform Resin in the wetFadeBrake fade is the reduction in stopping power that occurs when brakes are very hot. Resin tend to fade at lower temperature than Metallic. That said, with these Resin pads we haven't been able to get fade in any situation - including the infamous Mt Oxford descent! Rotor Wear RateResin pads cause lower wear to your rotor than Metallic padsTotal Ongoing CostsEven after accounting for the lower rotor wear rate from Resin pads, Metallic pads will cost you about half as much as Resin pads in the long term for total brake maintenance costs Maximizing Performance To maximize the braking force from new pads it is important to bed them in systematically. It is tempting to forgo this step, but this will leave performance on the table. 'Just riding' a new pair of pads results in inferior braking compared to intentionally bedding in those same pads. A good bedding in process transfers an even layer of brake pad material to the rotor. Pad material transferred to the rotor generates more friction with the pad than the rotor material does. Think about the difference between two grippy surfaces touching versus two slick surfaces. Bedding in your pads creates the best possible match between your pad and rotor surfaces. Which in turn maximizes braking force. PROCEDURE1) Clean your rotor with a non-residual cleaner like isopropyl alchohol (you can forgo this step if you don’t have any around)2) Install pads3) Install wheel4) Pedal bike up to speed and apply your brakes with a consistent pressure (gently at first is best).5) Take off brakes before you stop. Stopping fully ends up causing an uneven transfer of pad material6) Repeat steps 4-5 ten to twenty timesIt always surprises us how different the brakes feel after we’ve gone through this process. We do this on a downhill road (ideally at the top of a chairlift ;) ). Stops us having to pedal up to speed a bunch of times, which can make for a serious puff-fest!

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The worst part about floor pumps is their valve heads. The pump lasts forever, the valve head for 3 or so years. If yours is tired or breaks, don't buy a new pump - just get a replacement head. These valve heads work with Presta and Schrader valves and fit on standard 8mm-10mm outer diameter hoses.

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When working on your bike, having it elevated and held in place is extremely useful. This repair stand is a fantastic investment for being able to fix your bike. The clamp can rotate around two axis and if it's been mounted to the wall well, it's more stable that a conventional stand. This stand can be permanently mounted to a wall to save space and with less parts this stand costs less conventional two leg stands. Occasionally we see one mounted in the rear door of a van, very cool! Having your own Bike Repair Stand is a great way to start doing maintenance on your own bikes. We would be lost without ours! The alternatives to this product are: Conventional two-legged repair stands which are portable here Bench mounted repair stand here, like this but mount to a bench Specifications: Maximum Weight Capacity: 25kg - it can likely hold more but that is at your own risk Clamp opening adjusts from 30 - 80mm. Clamp has soft rubber on the inside which prevents damage being done to your bike when clamping. Notes This stand does not come with fixings for the wall. You'll need to determine how best to install it yourself The distance from the centre of the clamp to the wall is approximately 41cm Don't worry about this product being partially made out of plastic. It is very robust If you want to put your bike on super funky angles you may need to tighten the rotation mechanism. This can easily be done by taking the handle off and tightening a bolt which brings the teeth slightly closer together. Clamping your bike too hard can break things - just go easy on tightening it. 

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